Palm Beach Here We Are

Along the ICW:

The route leg from Jensen Beach to Palm Beach was beautiful but crowded with boat traffic. This section of the ICW is lined with expensive homes.

Some of the homes are situated on “fingers of land” that have these straight water fairways lined with docks.

Chart Plotter
Fingers of land, flat bottom surface and a close pass by the red daymarker
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Water Fairways

The speed along the ICW changes back and forth between “Idle – No Wake” in manatee zones and “25MPH in Channel” zones where boats are allowed to produce more sizable wakes. With exception of only a few homes the standard solution for docks is to use boat lifts. Kelly & I wondered if M/V Simple Life is too large/heavy for a boat lift. I joked that anything it “technically possible” even if not the norm. As we travelled South we saw boats almost as heavy on lifts.

Boat Lifts:

Big Boat on lift

Viking model/size unknown

Stern Heavy
Hinkley – supported by stern only. I dare you to stand on the bow.

Then there are those folks who need a boat that is just a bit to big for a boat lift.

Who Cares
M/V Who Cares

We even saw Grand Celebration moored as we made our way around Peanut Island Park in Rivera Beach.

Celebration Cruise Ship
The Grand Celebration is a Bahamas Paradise Cruise Line cruise ship, originally built for Carnival Cruise Line
Stumpy mast
Not sure what you call this type of boat?

We saw many wave runners enjoying the great weather.

 

Wave runners
That’s some ‘bad hat’

Sandbar People:

These ‘Sandbar Girls” were having too much fun taking selfies on one of the many sandbars that line the ICW channel.

Sandbar Girls
Sandbar Girls

Maybe this crew should have paid more attention to the sandbars?

Grounded
I love that while they are coming up with a plan the trolling motor is spinning away on the bow

We almost stopped early in the leg to anchor at Peck Lake but many of the anchorages were crowded along the way.

Peck Anchorage
Peck Lake anchorage just South of Port Lucie Inlet

As we approached Palm Beach where I planned to anchor I wondered if my pre-selected anchorage would be full like many we passed along the way.

Catamaran
Catana 431 with a hard catamaran dingy in North Palm Beach

Tight Anchorages:

My concerns we justified when we arrived and struggled to find a spot with enough swing room for us with the strong reversing currents. The captain on the catamaran made a face at me as I noisily lowered my 90# anchor and all chain rode. I don’t agree with making faces at people when you think they anchored too close to you. I have always thought … Everyone is free to anchor in a free anchorage. Fairness is whomever gets there last should pickup anchor and leave if swing room becomes an issue. Barring that some idiot has not let out twice the recommended scope to be “extra safe from dragging”.  While I have been known to let out more rode than needed in an empty anchorage, should it get crowded, I’ll be the first to shorten scope before dinghying over to that boat which anchored after me asking them to shorten scope or weigh anchor.

Anchored:

Once on anchored, we had a great view of the high-rise buildings during the day

High Rise

as well as at night.

Hi Rise Night

The bridge was something to gaze at as well, being lit with glowing lights.

Bridge Night

Next stop Boca Raton

Jensen Beach – Stuart, FL

We left the marina in Vero Beach and started heading South again. We enjoyed the marina and the gated Grand Harbor community of which it is a part.

Suntex Marina in the Grand Harbor community

We will be closing on our old home tomorrow. Good bye home.

95 Sheldonville
Home for the last 13 years

The plan is to sell the home and cruise the East coast till we find an area where we want to settle down. Vero Beach was nice but it was also the first location that we stopped at for an extended time.

We plan to be in the North for Spring, Summer & Fall with our family and friends. However, the question of “do we buy a place up North and live aboard while fleeing winter down South or vice versa?” We don’t know the answer yet. We plan to cruise the South looking at different locations and imagine what it might be like to live there.

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Flee the North

Maybe we should use Ben Franklin’s Pros vs. Cons style of decision-making?

The North has a king & queen:

Wait… this king & queen

IMG_1387
The real King of the North

The South has

Beaches

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boating beach

and boating

trawlerbahamas
a trawler enjoying the clear blue water

We believe North or South will figure itself out as we explore more locations.

Yesterday’s trip down to Jensen Beach looked something like this:

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Derelict sailboat along the ICW
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A building floated up on an island?

Jensen Beach

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Jenson Beach North of Stuart & St. Lucie Inlet

Once anchored, it was time to put our feet up,

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watch the sun set,IMG_6112

and the bridge light up.

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Other notable stories this week was the story of a young couple who were chasing the simple life. After dropping out of work, selling everything they owned and buying a $5,000 1969 Columbia 28′ sailboat similar to this one.

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1969 Columbia 28′ sailboat yachtworld listing

They sunk another $5K into the boat, a few sailing lessons from a one of the couples’ Dad and they set sail. Only two days into their quest to sail the world, they ran aground in John’s Pass near Tampa, FL and sunk her loosing everything they had.

Social media is alive with people calling them idiots. I don’t feel that way however, I will slam them for creating a GoFundMe page to cover expenses that they alone are responsible for. Was their plan risky? Could they have benefited by gaining more experience? Should the boat have been more seaworthy? Should they have saved more money? Yes, of course but life is about experiences and if we wait till everyone tells you you’re ready, you’ll never leave the dock. Boating couples come in two varieties:

  1. Couples who buy huge million dollar seaworthy boats only to leave the dock once a year on the fourth of July to make a safe loop around the harbor
  2. Couples who buy a decades old boat with a few dollars and want to sail the world.

Most boaters are somewhere in the middle but I don’t see a problem with either of the extremes. Life and boating are pursuit of happiness. It’s your life and nobody else is going to live it for you so do what you like and do it soon.

Click on the picture below to find Nikki Walsh’s Facebook page here and see their pug that was rescued along with them.

Nikki Walsh

Click on the picture below to read the full story

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What are your thoughts on their story? Leave your comments.

Home Be Gone

“Sell everything but the boat and have the simple life”. We did it. We sold our home in North Attleboro! Well almost. The closing is only days away.

The listing

When Kelly & I met we each sold our own homes and purchased this home together. We loved the home from the moment we saw it. We joked that … “if the current residents had ever seen us driving by each night after work they’d declare us stalkers”. Not having kids (of the 2 legged kind), it was more home than the two of us needed yet over the years we spent a lot of time updating the home & landscaping.

When you own a home, everyone conspires to trick you into believing you need to be doing “projects”. Projects like, installing a new irrigation system, wall-mount TVs, recessed lighting, new countertops, hardwood floors, a new shed, lawnmower, snowblower, leaf blower, surveillance system, smart home additions, and so on…

You’ll be standing in the lonely isles of Lowes or Home Depot reading some marketing display listing the PSI of a gas-powered pressure washer. You’ll spend countless nights searching the far reaches of Amazon to find the perfect WiFi connected smoke & CO detectors. You’ll open innumerable boxes and have to cut them up into ridiculously small squares to keep the town’s recycling from skipping over your barrel. You’ll do all these things during those precious moments when you are home from work. We finally asked ourselves…why?

We loved boating and we found ourselves getting depressed every year when it was time to put the boat on the hard. The boating season in New England is insanely short. We’d spend a month getting the boat ready for boating season and then hope Mother Nature cooperated so we could enjoy those few precious weekends during the summer. Then before we’d know it….it was again time to prepare her for winter and put her on the hard.

Well, we finally decided to do it! To really do it! We embodied the name of our boat, “The Simple Life” and sold everything! The last thing keeping us somewhat tied to terra firms was the house and that is soon to be gone too.

We’re back in Vero Beach (where we left our boat) after clearing out the house for the buyers. Now we think it’s time to start checking off items from our bucket list and the Florida Keys is on that list!

This is going to be quite the adventure!

Vero Beach with Friends

Well we made it to Vero Beach just in time for Christmas.

Xmas boat decorations

We had not decorated for the holidays and with it being almost 80 degrees and sunny it was not feeling quite like the Christmas for us Northerners. What to do? Put up a Christmas tree. OK, the boat is not that big so we settled on a small Xmas display instead.

We are staying in a Suntex Marina (formerly Loggerhead Marina). Suntex’s HQ is in Texas and they recently purchased 11 Loggerhead marinas in Florida. The marina here is surrounded by high-end condos in a gated community. They have a beautiful pool and waterfall as well as a captain’s lounge where the captains enjoy coffee together each morning.

Suntex Marina Pool

The trip South down the Indian River from Melbourne Beach to Vero Beach started with a beautiful sunrise.

Melbourne Beach Sunrise

Followed by large homes and the occasional trawler passing by.

Indian River Home

Passing Trawler

The highlight of our stay was getting to spend time with Kelly’s Auntie Lori and her husband Jim who have an amazing home here in Vero Beach. Thanks Auntie Lori & Jim for being such great hosts! Here is a selfie from happy hour with our waitress Savannah (whose personality matched that beautiful smile).

Riverside Cafe

The weather has been warm and sunny but Chief Martin Brody and Happy don’t seem to mind.

Brody and Happy in the sun

PS. Don’t tell them it’s not real grass in the cockpit.

We have been hearing about the 8 degree weather back home so we hope all our friends back home are staying warm.

Μelbourne Beach @ Sunset

Well we got up with the sunrise in New Smyrna Beach, weighed the anchor and got underway. Our trip today looked something like this.

We passed other boaters like “Sweet T” who had not quite arisen.

We passed several homes that still had the “Blue Tarp” on their roof possibly from hurricane damage?

The birds were either acting like gargoyles or slowly peddling by us.

We were reminded as we passed under the NASA causeway Bridge that Merritt island and Cape Canaveral were off to the East.

There where power poles that crossed the sound and you had to be careful not to run into the guide wires.

Chief Martin Brody found a sunny spot on the grass in the cockpit. Don’t tell him it’s not real.

We passed a “blow boat”. Reminds me how much I miss sailing at times (not Kelly).

Several power boats roared past too.

However, after being glued to the helm from sunrise to sunset. Now it’s my time to enjoy an IPA and take in the sunset on anchor.

Oh. I almost forgot. Danny & Wendy, this one is for you… Merry Capt. Christmas..

Bridges of Daytona Beach

We weighed anchor about 8:30AM and pushed hard all the way to New Smyrna, FL.

48 nautical miles is a long run for us. We ran at about 2.0 Gal/Hr @ 7km/hr. We started with the current with us, then against us and finally with us again.

I read in Active Captain that they offered free tours of this fort. I wish we had more time (maybe on the return trip?).

Today’s trip took us by Daytona Beach and it was full of beautiful houses.

Who are these people who have homes in such a beautiful place?

Along the way Kelly & I tried our best to capture some of the birds that flew by.

We saw an airport that was pretty busy with small planes taking off or landing every few minutes.

The bridges were many but most opened on demand. This bridge was the first that only opened on one side. As you pass under you worry that you wont hit the bottom of the bridge or the unopened edge.

There were some nice bike / walking paths along the waterway and this woman and her dog were enjoying the day.

We anchored along the side of the ICW alongside everal other boats and now it’s time to play some music, bake some cookies and drift off.

St. Augustine, FL

Well, the no name island anchorage in Jacksonville, FL turned out to be very peaceful. Thankfully the strong current of the St. James River was not an issue behind the island.

We left that peaceful anchorage and retraced our path back over the 4′ bank that was not a problem this time due to the high tide that we left on.

As we made our way back down the St. James River we were reminded of all the commercial shipping that lined the river banks.

Our trip from Jacksonville to St. Augustine looked something like this.

As we departed the St. James River and got back onto the ICW we saw a ship in dry dock that had it’s bridge tower staged and shrink wrapped. It looked a lot like the navy vessels that were being worked on in Norfolk, VA.

A bit further down the ICW and it was back to beautiful homes lining the river banks.

We loved that someone put a festive scarf on their T-Rex. Who has a T-Rex in their backyard?

After a short trip down the ICW we came to Camachee Cove Yacht Harbor. A great little marina along the ICW.

We had reservations at the marina but when I hailed them on the VHF radio the let us know that we would have to anchor for an hour and wait for the tide to come in a bit before we could enter the marina. The entrance channel did not have enough water for our 5′ draft due the the tides and the recent West winds. When the wind blows from the West it pushes all the water in the ICW out of the inlets and back into the Atlantic Ocean. We decided that after 5 nights being on anchor we would spend the next two nights in a marina. We waisted no time and found a great little restaurant that was within walking distance called the Kingfish Grill. They had a great shrimp & scallop Alla vodka for me and an angus burger for Kelly. Below is the Kingfish Grill’s outdoor garden that was lit up for the holidays.

The next morning we re-provisioned the boat using a grocery delivery service. Kelly used her iPhone to place her order and set the delivery time the night before. We awoke to texts from our personal shopper texting us that she was on her way to the marina and and she would be the “girl in the gray Toyota”. After re-provisioning we spent the day taking on some more water and while Kelly cleaned the inside of the boat, I washed the outside. It was 80 something degrees out and seemed odd as Christmas is just a few days away. The next morning we shoved off and had no sooner started South down the ICW and we ran into a restricted bascule bridge and had to anchor for 45 minutes while we waited for it’s 12:30PM opening. Along the river bank you could see the fortress called Castillo De San Marco I snapped the picture below.

Below is a picture of a scenic tour boat that passed with it’s fenders permanently hung off their port side. Their pilothouse looked more like a gazebo to us.

When the bridge opened we were again making way and passing what appeared to us as a collection of derelict boats anchored along the river. The boat below appeared to have someone on board due to the attached dinghy. I wonder how the state handles these anchored boats?

Eventually we made it to a nice little anchorage near the Atlantic Ocean inlet known as Matanzas Inlet.

There is a strong current in here with a rocky bottom so we let out 40 meters of chain rode and settled in for the night.

We anchored right in front of Fort Matanzas shown below.

Tomorrow it’s back down the ICW and hopefully we’ll be anchored somewhere in Daytona Beach.

Jacksonville Florida

Breakfast in Delaroche Creek, griddle style. YUMM!

We don’t know if we are gaining or losing weight? We don’t have a scale onboard. I’m sure cooking my favorite breakfast this morning is not helping but how can you say no to hash-n-eggs with wheat toast?

Our trip today took us from Delaroche Creek (about the middle of Cumberland Island, GA) to Jacksonville, FL.

On our way into Cumberland Sound the VHF radio crackled with a warning from the US Navy. There was a warship in the area and they advised all vessels to heed the 500 yard perimeter around the ship. M/V Simple Life does not have guns or armor plate so we made our way cautiously into Cumberland Sound with two other boats, “S/V Whiskey Me Away” and “M/V Redtail”.

M/V Redtail (pictured below) appears to be a 42′ Kadey Krogen which is similar in size and style to our 43′ North Pacific raised pilothouse. Kelly and I love the classic lines of a Kadey Krogen.

As we approached Kings Bay, this Navy patrol boat with blue lights flashing moved out of my way after we hailed them on 16. (Note the machine gun on the bow)

We passed some sort of observation tower (maybe connected to the Navy base or the nearby plant/factory?)

Next it was into the Amelia River near Fernandina Beach. As we made our way South along Amelia Island, the current was strong and there were many sights to see.

The mast pictured above was the only thing sticking above the water of this boat.

This sailboats keel was missing as she laid on the shore.

Below this Amelia Research and Recovery vessel was jacked out of the water on pilings. Note the black marine day shapes on her pilothouse roof. They are signaling her as “restricted in her ability to maneuver”.

Pictured below is a guy on some kind of tiny single chair dingy with a cooler. He seemed to be enjoying himself just cruising around.

The barge below passed us with what looks like vessel debris from Atlantic hurricane season 2017 and especially hurricane Irma which hit Jacksonville hard.

Three simultaneous hurricanes active on September 8, with Katia (left), Irma (center), and Jose (right), the first such occurrence since 2010.

Below is a boat that landed on the shore. She appears in good shape but I would not want my propeller and thru-hulls sitting in the mud like that. Especially when the tide comes back in and the wakes are rocking the boat.

A Tip of the Hat: Navigating around the shallows in this area was made easier by the .gpx downloadable routes provided by Mr. Robert Sherer. Bob and his wife Ann have a great Fleetwing sailing blog that I follow. Bob has been cruising the ICW for a few years now and helps other sailors avoid running aground.

Even the crab pots seem to find themselves aground at low tide.

When we arrived at our planned anchorage, it was clear that it was far too narrow for us to be able to anchor in for the night. We pushed on and tried several other anchorages but they were either full like the free-docks in Jacksonville or just extremely exposed to current, wakes and wind. We made the decision to go up the St. John’s River as the sun was setting. I quickly realized that this was not a good idea when I felt the strong current that was running against us. There was also large commercial traffic moving swiftly down current. This tug and barge that hailed us by name before the captain ever saw us. The captain was able to do this because of the AIS (Automatic Identification System) that Kelly & I installed. You don’t want to be stuck in that current in the path of something like this when the current is pushing her hard at you.

AIS made us aware in time to stay out of her path.

We did not want to wind up like this poor motor yacht along the shores of the St. John’s River.

We scoured the charts looking for a good location that would protect us from this strong current and picked the backside of an unnamed island near Jacksonville center.

The only challenge was there was not enough water for us to enter. It was too shallow. With the sun quickly setting, we probed to find a way in. The first two attempts had the bow pushing into a soft silty shoal. The third attempt and we found a way over the shoal with an inch or two to spare. We quickly found our way into deeper water behind the island. We anchored up and it turned out to be a wonderful peaceful anchorage for the night.

Darien River and Delaroche Creek Anchorages

Kelly & I have been enjoying quiet nights on anchor and tonight will be spent on anchor in Delaroche Creek.

Below are the last 4 spots we have chosen to anchor.

Kelly & I both confessed that we like to anchor more than we like to stop at marinas. There is just something nice about being alone.

I have used the time to catch up on the walking dead.

I also got to watch “Anchorman” while on anchor. I think I laughed so hard I almost cried.

As we traveled down the ICW the weather just kept getting warmer. While it may have only been 65 degrees out, it was over 80 in the pilothouse.

Chief Martin Brody, our Boston Terrier, loves to lay on a pillow covered by his favorite Afghanistan and soak up the sun.

Along the way we were followed by bottle nose dolphins.

Many different sea birds.

The last picture is of these large white birds with black tipped wings. We keep trying to capture them up close but keep missing them.

We also saw cows grazing along the deserted islands.

We only passed 5 or so boats. We passed these fishermen who where combining their efforts to catch bait fish using a cast-able net.

This faster trawler passed us.

Heck, even the towboat who was engaged in an active tow passed us. We figured 6 knots isn’t exactly fast.

The towboat captain was quite friendly and chatted with us on the VHF for a bit. He warned us about the upcoming shallows in Jekyll Creek that goes around Jekyll Island. He was not wrong. We were approaching simultaneously with low tide. We thought we might anchor before the worst of it but instead pushed on and made it past Jekyll Island to Cumberland Island further South. Tonight we anchored in Delaroche Creek about halfway down Cumberland Island. It’s a tight fit in here. I had to shorten the anchor rode more than I wanted to keep from swinging into the banks of the creek. I snapped a pic just to show how close the edge of the creek is in here.

Last night’s anchor in the Darien River was a bit wider and lucky for that as the local Darien shrimp boats had to squeeze by us.

So tonight as we get ready to watch the Patriots play we’ll enjoy yet another beautiful sunset.

St. Catherine’s Island Anchorage

Just before weighing anchor at Turtle Island we snapped one last panoramic picture (below)

The trip down the ICW to St. Catherine’s Island was made a bit more difficult by the 7+ foot tides that were running into low.

Of course you don’t need the depth finder to see where the shallows are; it’s where the birds are standing rather than floating.

I snapped the below picture as we ducked under this 30′ bascule bridge as Kelly piloted the boat.

Yesterday’s trip took us across the line into Georgia and past the Savannah River. We had a moment when we passed the marina where 12 years earlier we purchased our previous sailboat, Skull & Swords.

Isle of Hope Marina is on a bight along the ICW’s Skidaway River.

All points South of Isle of Hope Marina are new cruising grounds for us. Some of what we saw was bird life such as this unidentifiable bird of prey.

Or this stalker of the shallows:

We passed these guys who decided to pitch tents along the shore rather than sleep aboard.

Today’s trip will take us from St. Catherine’s Island to somewhere around Sapelo Island

We are going anchor to anchor over the next few days to find the sun. These unseasonably cold mornings (in the 40’s) are continuing to bedevil us.

That said, I needed to solve the riddle of who destroyed our porch pumpkin back home.

We searched through our home surveillance footage and nabbed the suspects.

Be on the lookout for these two.