Cumberland Island to Pine Island

It’s 3AM do You Know Where Your Boat is?

It’s 3AM, the wind is gusting and I’m up checking weather and tides.

It’s almost low tide and I’m anchored in a narrow creek with the wind blowing me towards the creek bank. Oh great, I only got another 3 hours and 19 minutes till the that burning disc comes up.

The USCG Gale Warning is still in effect till about noon today.

USCG Gale Warning Still in Effect

Into the Mystic

OK, the sun is up and I’m underway with that still ominous sky above me.

The offshore cold front has dropped the temp. Fog is building on the waters surface. It’s a strange thing to be piloting straight down a river that has the fog blowing by you from behind.

King’s Bay Naval Base

At the end of the above video you can see the USCG boat appearing out of the fog. Below is a video of them circling around me before hailing me to explain that the US Navy was carrying out exercises in Cumberland Sound that could interfere or damage my electronics if I got too close. They wanted to know what my intentions were. I explained that I was an ICW boater and would be crossing Cumberland Sound bound for the Amelia River in Fernandina Beach and points south. They politely asked me to stay 2000 yards from the naval ships or as far away as possible while still safely navigating.

USCG Approaching MV Simple Life

USCG Boat moored on the CG mooring ball near entrance to Amelia River

Cumberland Sound is home to the King’s Bay Naval Submarines Base. There are six Trident-class submarines stationed here. There is a a long deep channel cut through the shallow coastal shelf and muddy tidal Cumberland Sounds, to the Atlantic ocean. This allows for the submarines to pass. Every time I cross Cumberland Sound I have interactions with the Navy security boat or USCG. Recreational boaters are not permitted in the King’s Bay area west of the ICW Channel.

Entering the Amelia River I passed this USCG boat.

USCG Boat in the Amelia River

Welcome to Florida!

The St. Mary’s River divides Georgia from Florida. The town of St. Mary’s is on the northern Georgia side of the river and Fernandina Beach is on the southern Florida side. When you sail into Fernandina Beach you’ll find the WestRock Industrial wood pulp plant and CHP (Combined Heat & Power) plants along the shore. Industry began here after the great depression with a wood pulp plant. Now there is a cluster of both power, wood and packaging plants located here partly due to the railway and harbor.

I think it was Hurricane Matthew that caused a lot of damage to the Fernandina Beach area and boats.

Hurricane Matthew Oct 2016 just offshore of Amelia Island

MV Acadia had followed me through the Navy exercises area and was now breaking off to go anchor in the Amelia River. I’ve anchored in the Amelia River a few times. Today however, I planned to use of all the daylight to get south of Jacksonville, FL. That would allow me to make Daytona Beach the next day.

FV Gina Ann with all her gear proudly displayed

I often see this police line-up of birds on the shore. I wonder why they group like that?

It was lunch time and I have to keep the boat moving so I bring all my ingredients to the helm and make my lunch while I drive.

Soon I came to Jacksonville, FL and I cross over the St. John’s River and into Pablo Creek heading south. There is a tight bridge that I have gone under many times but as I approached it I could that the strong current was producing 2-3′ standing waves on the down current side of the bridge.

Pablo Creek Bridge Jacksonville, FL

I use a user sourced digital cruising guide called Active Captain to keep me aware of all the marinas, anchorages and hazards along my route. Below I pasted my review of the AC strong current hazard located at Pablo Creek bridge.

Please note: There is a current station for this bridge. In order to see it in Aqua Maps, I had to zoom way in. It was hidden under the tide station located just north of the bridge. The current station is named. “Pablo Creek bascule bridge”.
I have been under this bridge 4 times without concern. This time I hit it right at max ebb 5.67kts on a full moon with strong opposing winds (gale warning ended 2hours earlier). There were 2’+ standing waves on the down current side of the bridge. The strong current was catching my full keel causing me to make huge port and starboard rudder corrections.
It’s narrow between the bridge fenders. With no boats behind me… I kicked it in neutral and it spat me out like a toddler does to their first taste of broccoli.
I chose to anchor in the Active Captain Anchorage called “Atlantic Blvd Br.” Just NE of the bridge. I waited for it to slow down a bit. Waiting meant I’d have to burn more fuel to get to my chosen “Pine Island Anchorage” before dark. I’d rather pay a fuel bill than a fiberglass bill. Be careful if you are a full-keel trawler with low power and/or a small rudder.
Capt Mahty

Waiting for the current to slow slightly had cost me time and I would not make it to my chosen anchorage until dark. I still say it was the right move rather than risk getting slammed into the bridge’s fender boards.

This leg of my winter journey looked something like this.

Bridges of Daytona Beach

We weighed anchor about 8:30AM and pushed hard all the way to New Smyrna, FL.

48 nautical miles is a long run for us. We ran at about 2.0 Gal/Hr @ 7km/hr. We started with the current with us, then against us and finally with us again.

I read in Active Captain that they offered free tours of this fort. I wish we had more time (maybe on the return trip?).

Today’s trip took us by Daytona Beach and it was full of beautiful houses.

Who are these people who have homes in such a beautiful place?

Along the way Kelly & I tried our best to capture some of the birds that flew by.

We saw an airport that was pretty busy with small planes taking off or landing every few minutes.

The bridges were many but most opened on demand. This bridge was the first that only opened on one side. As you pass under you worry that you wont hit the bottom of the bridge or the unopened edge.

There were some nice bike / walking paths along the waterway and this woman and her dog were enjoying the day.

We anchored along the side of the ICW alongside everal other boats and now it’s time to play some music, bake some cookies and drift off.

Prince of Tides

Beaufort, North Carolina is your quintessential small southern town. It is the 3rd oldest town in North Carolina and as you walk through this quaint small town, you can’t help be taken a back by it’s charm.

As we came ashore there were two monuments to local heroes within feet of where we landed. The first was Michael John Smith who gave his life for the pursuit of space exploration. Michael was a NASA space astronaut. Like so many, I believe that every human owes a great debt to astronauts who risk their lives so that the human race may have a better chance at surviving this hostile universe. They take risks that many of us might think too great. Michael was aboard the Challenger space shuttle when it exploded only 73 seconds after launch. The entire nation stood in horror at that moment, Like so many of you, I recall the shock and disbelief of this tragedy. The whole nation was forced to mourn the loss of these 7 heroes.

The second memorial stone was dedicated to a local oceanographer named John G Newton who discovered the U.S.S. Monitor using side scan sonar technology. Side scan sonar is an improvement on the DSM (Depth Sounder Module) that MV Simple Life uses to determine our depth as we came into Beaufort.

Leaving Beaufort was as tricky as getting in. The currents here in Beaufort are swift. When we arrived, I had to swing MV Simple Life into a narrow fairway with an extra strong 3 knot current directly on our beam. Simple Life’s full keel gives that current a flat surface to push her down-current quickly. With some fast movements at the helm and some help from the thrusters we landed her gently into our assigned slip. The trip out of the slip was made easier by the fact the strong current was on our bow. I nudged her out of the slip and simply swung the bow a few degrees off the current and she quickly pointed out of the fairway.

The currents can be seen pulling this green can under as we were exiting Beaufort and rounding the Southern point of Radio Island.

Currents are brought on by the tides and our friend Rebecca informed us the the movie “Prince of Tides” was filmed on location here in Beaufort. Knowing now that the movie was fillmed in Beaufort, maybe it’ll make a good first-time watch while on anchor?

Youtube link to 1991 Prince of Tides trailer

Our last night in Beaufort was a late one and the morning’s light was unwelcomed. We had a long trip ahead of us if we were to make Sloop Point anchorage by sunset.

We needed to make up time so we used the fast currents to our advantage and raced westward through Bouge Sound.

Bouge Sound is an East-West body of water trapped between main land North Carolina and a set of barrier islands. The sound has a narrow channel and marshy islands that abound. While the ocean was lumpy, Bouge Sound was a flat and reflective, like a mirror.

The only boat traffic we passed was a tiny little tug and barge with a piece of heavy equipment on it as well as one of those awkward looking front-loaded boats where you drive from the bow.

A little further South and we were reminded that Camp Legune is around us. Signs along the river warn of possible live fire events.

This picture of a shelled APC (I’m just guessing this was an armored personnel carrier, military expertise needed here) reminds me of a Monet or maybe a watercolor painting. The marshy grasses in the foreground simply mush together while the island and threatening clouds in the background appear to bleed and wash out the watercolors on a canvas.

With sunset approaching we had to race to make it through the restricted Onslow Beach swing bridge.

Every morning we research where the shoals are along the ICW. It seems the ICW’s bottom is in a constant state of evolution. You need to use sites like activecaptain.com/livemap/ to be able to use the knowledge other ICW boaters have posted to avoid running aground like this poor sailboat did.

We anchored in Sloop Point behind green daymark 15 and it was a peaceful night as we listed to the rain pitter-patter on the boat. The perfect background noise as we whisked off to the master stateroom.