It was enjoyable to set the hook after a 33 hour run outside. Our night’s stay on anchor flanked by the ghost ships was beautiful.
Saying Goodbye to the Concrete Ghost Ships
Now we were crossing the lower portion of the Chesapeake Bay and taking the stern of crossing cargo ships.
Turning to starboard to take the stern of a cargo ship near Thimble Shoal
Today’s route through Norfolk looked roughly like this.
Kiptopeke State Park – Chesapeake, VA
Shortly after getting underway we enjoyed one of my breakfast favorites, “Bacon Hash & Eggs”.
YUMM
Soon we were passing all the warships docked at Norfolk Naval Base.
Warships on a Cloudy Day
After you pass the Navy base you come to the Portsmouth ship yard where you’ll find lots of large ocean going vessels in port for repairs or to unload their cargo. Tidewater marina is located here and it’s a popular stop for ICW cruisers.
Tidewater Marina
A bit further south and we were at the official start of the ICW or mile marker 0.
We rounded a bend in the Elizabeth River and found that the Norfolk Southern Rail Road Bridge was currently in the down position. This meant doing circles while we waited and watched two separate trains go past. One train was leaving with what looked like a full load of coal. The other train appeared empty and inbound.
Once the Norfolk Southern RR Bridge opened, it was time to slip beneath it
When we arrived at Top Rack Marina in Chesapeake, VA, we took on 292 gallons of diesel. We had last filled the diesel tanks in Warwick, RI. While we could have saved fuel by pulling back the throttles a bit, we have been making good time ever since we departed Warwick, RI. Warmer weather is in front of us.
Then we moved over from the diesel fill slip to our assigned slip for the night.
Renee in the cockpit at Top Rack
With provisions running a bit low, I used my Instacart app to buy groceries for the next week or so of our journey. Instacart grocery delivery is great and our shopper delivered our groceries right to our boat.
We struggled to find all the room in the refrigerator for the large order we placed.
Fridge #1 is FULL
Luckily I have a dometic AC/DC fridge/freezer combo that allows either of the two sides of the chest be either fridge or freezer. We quickly emptied everything from the freezer into a single side and raised the temp from 2 degrees F to 34 degrees F and moved whatever would not fit in the fridge in the newly created second refrigerator.
Raised Temp from 2 -> 34 Degrees on Left Side
Tied to the slip with all our provisions put away, it was time for a great meal at the Amber Lantern Restaurant.
Amber Lantern Restaurant
Stay tuned for tomorrow’s leg to the Great Dismal Swamp!
Before leaving Coinjock Marina, we received an email alert that MV Meanders had left Port: Coinjock. MV Meanders had been docked bow to bow with us. They had stealthily slipped away while we were making coffee.
Marinetraffic.com email alert for a boat as it leaves a port
MV Meanders is a beautiful 49’ North Pacific yachts RPH trawler. She’s a bigger version of our boat with reverse raked PH windows. MV Meanders was recently sold to a nice couple named Tom & Nancy who stopped to say “hi” when they saw our NP43 fueling up on the docks. Meanders was previously owned by friends of ours, Andy & Marty. Andy was my boat broker and took me for my first ride in their NP43. I was smitten. I setup the MarineTraffic alert when Andy & Marty were living aboard their boat and traveling to many different ports. At that time, I was working and enjoyed getting alerts about all the interesting places they were visiting. I would think to myself.. “soon that will be Kelly & I and the dogs”.
MV Meanders a 49′ NP RPH docked off our bow in Coinjock, NC
We had to delay our departure momentarily to allow for a passing tug pushing not one but two barges. We don’t want to be in the way of something like this.
Tug Pushing 2 Barges up the ICW
As we traveled down the ICW were chasing a 1935 boat called “MV NAN” out of Osterville, MA. A beautiful old boat that hails out of a marina that we have visited once or twice.
1935 MV Nan
Chasing Nan North up the ICW
At the helm, I was using my iPhone’s charting app to measure distances to restricted bridges and locks. Many bascule, lift or swing bridges only operate at certain times like “top of the hour” or on the “half hour”. You need to measure the distance to the next bridge opening and adjust your speed to arrive on time. If you don’t you’ll find yourself treading water till the next opening. As I looked up from my iPhone, I saw this log floating down the river and had to swerve to avoid hitting it. iPhones make it even easier to run into a hazard on the ICW.
Hazards to Navigation are everywhere in the ICW
Just before arriving at Top Rack Marina you pass this school bus hanging precariously over a precipice. They put a sign in the window that says, “Fire Rescue Training in Progress”. I imagine they added that after someone called 911 to say that “a school bus was about to fall into the ICW!”
Fire & Rescue Training Using a School Bus About to Plunge into the ICW
Soon we were at Top Rack Marina and enjoying a well deserved dinner at the Amber Lantern Restaurant. What great food this restaurant has. Kudos to the Chef.
Amber Lantern Bar
When we awoke in the AM we could not depart due to an emergency! We were out of dog food! I hailed an Uber with the app and raced off to the local Petco. Dogs fed; we untied and headed North to Norfolk, VA.
Coming into Norfolk you feel small compared to the many warships lining the channel.
Warship IKE
68 & 69
Warship 72
Warship 77
Navy Soldier on Guard with AR15 on Bow
Warship IKE
How cool is it to have a Navy ceremony seated beneath the “Big Guns”?
Navy Ceremony – Battleship Wisconsin?
I always admire this thing as if it was a cool sculpture of sorts.
Star Wars?
One large container ship appeared to be washing their anchor. I wish I had a dedicated anchor wash system. Sometimes when our anchor comes up, it can be covered in muck from the sea bottom.
Anchors Getting Washed
We exited Norfolk harbor and pointed the boat up the coast. The weather was supposed to be 2-4 ft with 20kt winds.
We soon realized that the waves which were on our beam were far larger than predicted and made for a miserable ride. When we arrived at our planned anchorage which was just inside the “Great Machipongo Inlet”. We had only to cross over the bar shoal at the entrance. By now the waves had built into large breaking waves that were pushing us from behind toward the bar. As we progressed slowly over the bar I watched the depths with dread. 10’, 9’, 8’, 7, 6’!!! When I saw 5.7, we did an immediate hard spin and raced back out to sea the way we came in. You don’t want to run aground in breakers 30 miles from anyone.
As the spray from the waves washed over the pilothouse, Kelly & I had an emergency discussion about what to do?
We had 4 Options:
Hold the bow into the large waves until the tide rises and attempt to cross the bar again. It would probably be dark before we got enough lift from the tide.
Continue North 70+ miles to Ocean City, MD. I was exhausted and did not think I could make it another 10 hours into the night.
Continue North 30+ miles to the MARS anchorage. Zero protection against the large waves would have made for an unbearable night on anchor and the next day was predicting 25 kt winds and larger waves.
Return the 30+ miles back the way we came and tuck around Fisherman’s Island and into Chesapeake Bay to find an anchorage.
We chose option 4. This was hard for me because I often say to Kelly, “I hate moving backward or retracing steps”. I think this comes from a combination of being A.D.D and always not wanting to go backwards for something that you forgot and just a desire to never see the same scenery twice. Always seeing something new brings happiness.
As we made our way back into the bay, the sea began to soften and the ride became smoother.
Sunset off Fisherman’s Island, VA
We selected an anchorage called Sunset Grille Anchorage. As we approached it was very overcast and dark. Radar pings were showing two docks extending far out from shore on either side of our intended anchorage spot. If we didn’t approach from exactly perpendicular to the shore we’d have slammed into these pilings on this dark night. Thankfully we have radar and a remote searchlight to identify hazards the radar pings.
We anchored and tried to get some sleep.
1AM and the boat was ROCKING. The wind had picked back up and the current had aligned us so the waves were on our beam. The boat was rocking violently. So much so that eventually, I had to start the boat and pull anchor and leave into the blackness. It’s always better to stay on anchor than attempt to navigate an unfamiliar harbor on a black night. But spend 4 hours in a boat that is rocking like an amusement ride and you’ll take your chances underway.
The wind had picked up and we were on the wrong side of a 20 mile fetch of water that was now battering us with large waves. We fought our way to the calmer side of the bay and then turned North looking for an anchorage that would give us protection against the strong Southerly wind and waves. We motored our way to Godfrey Bay and anchored in a calm protected bay, safe from the day’s harsh weather. It was only 11AM and I could barely keep my eyes open even with the 3 cups of coffee I had pumped into myself.
As we entered the anchorage, we passed this classic Chesapeake crab boat.
Looks like a painting I’d hang on my wall
Now peacefully on anchor. We are plotting a new course that takes us up the Chesapeake Bay.
We’ll traverse the C&D canal and then have to sail down Delaware Bay, round Cape May and go North up the coast toward NYC.
We spent two nights at the Top Rack Marina (ICW Statute Mile 8.8) in Chesapeake, VA.
Top Rack Marina – a nice stop along the ICW
What a great place to stop. When we arrived at the marina, Ben was there to catch our lines and greet us with a some Virginian southern hospitality. Top Rack Marina is a “dry rack storage” marina. These style of marinas store their customer’s boats on indoor racks rather than floating in a traditional “wet slip”. Customers simply call and request their boat dropped into one of the dozen or so wet slips in the marina’s water edge.
Kelly relaxing in the cockpit
Indoor racks hold boats like a grocery store shelf
Outdoor racks act as staging locations as boats are washed, flushed and prepped
Their giant fork truck moves boats effortlessly and can be intimidating as it whirls around with a boat high in the air.
We decided to stay for two nights and re-provision the boat. Usually we would have to grab a Uber to a nearby grocery store but we have found that grocery delivery services are a much faster, cheaper and a far simpler way to restock. When we were in Brick, NJ we used Peapod from Stop & Shop but here in Chesapeake, VA we used Farm Fresh Supermarket.
Jaquay was our designated shopper and he would text us with pics of substitutions for any out of stock items on our list. Jaquay picked our order, drove dockside and was kind enough to help carry our groceries aboard. Thanks Jaquay.
Jaquay
The marina has a great ship store and Deli and as I checked in with Brian at the front desk, Brittany was there to help me select a local IPA beer called “El Guapo IPA”. El Guapo is brewed locally in Norfolk, VA by O’Connor Brewery
In Spanish El Guapo is a beautiful guy, a well looking male
Then it was on to dine at the Amber Lantern Restaurant. We stepped out of the elevator and hostess Courtney warmly greeted us. We got an early start at the docks and by the time the restaurant opened at 4PM, we simply poured ourselves into seats at the bar. Bartender Sydney kept us smiling the whole night.
Sydney’s smile could warm the heart of even the crustiest sailor
Dynamic Duo: Sydney and Courtney
Being first into the restaurant, we had the chef to ourselves and the food was amazing. We had our fill and retired back to the boat only to wake up at the witching hour of 3AM and sing along with YouTube videos from artists in the “Forever 27 Club”. I recall some Janis Joplin was echoing out over the river… “Freedom’s just another word for nothing left to lose”…
We awoke to a ghostly fog creeping down the river and we quickly shoved off to race and catch the Great Bridge Lock opening at half-past-every-hour.
ICW fog
Once at the Lock we tied up to the Southern wall, waited for the lock doors to silently close and watched as it lowered us gently down to the height of the water on the Albemarle Sound side of the lock. I find it interesting that while the Elizabeth River side of the lock is tidal and varies about 2.7 feet the Albemarle Sound side varies only due to the winds that drive water up or out of the river. Equally as amazing is the age of the machinery that drives these locks. You watch as giant gates and machinery, built using simple principles of engineering mastered many years ago, silently close.
We kept the ICW-bridge-list.pdf displayed on the iPad we’d have the requisite knowledge at our fingertips. As you pilot the ICW you will want to be aware of such things as… What bridges are around the bend? Can you safely pass under their vertical height? Are they restricted in opening times? How to contact the bridge tender on to request an opening?
ICW bridge list for all 1,243-miles of ‘inland’ waterway
As you make your way down the Albemarle Chesapeake Canal you can’t help but notice it’s as straight as spaghetti. The Canal was originally conceived of in 1772 but had to wait until technology advances (circa 1856) that allowed steam-powered mechanical dredges to cut through the land. While the canal is over 70 miles long, there is only 14 miles of excavated land. There are really two different “cuts”. The 8.5 mile long Virginia Cut which connects the Elizabeth River with the North Landing River in Virginia and the North Carolina Cut which is 5 miles long and slices across the Currituck Peninsula at the village of Coinjock to enter the North River, flowing south into the Albemarle Sound.
Historic chart denoting the Virginia and NC cuts
This canal is a wonderful part of American history. During the U.S. Civil War, when the Union Army commandeered the canal, nearly 9,000 vessels made the transit. After the War, traffic continued to increase as the waterway took over practically all of the trade passing between the Albemarle Sound and Norfolk, Virginia.
As we meander down the ICW at a leisurely pace of 6 knots (4.5 MPG) we noted the passing from Virginia into NC. Then just a short while later, we were stumped to explain why this looping side canal was littered with wrecks? How did this happen?
VA / NC State Line – ICW statute mile marker 34
How did this happen?
Gently used boat for sale
Maybe this cannon we passed was responsible for the wrecks 😉
The scenery at this point in the ICW is amazing! The waterway is lined with tall grass and you’ll watch as the local duck hunters race by you in camouflaged flat bottom boats. We’d pass the occasional duck blind hidden in the grass and Kelly & I would jabber about the moral issues of tricking ducks with decoys into becoming dinner. I’m always intrigued by the human race’s dilemma between a desire to coexist peacefully with all the other animals on planet Earth and our need for subsistence.
We soon arrived at Coinjock Marina where dock hand, JD quickly moored us to the wall and we scurried off to the Sand Bar for an IPA, some buffalo wings and a filet mignon for Kelly.
A typical sailor bar along the ICW
The restaurant is known for their amazing prime rib
Inside the bar we met Bartender Jason and shared stories with other cruisers going South down the ICW. The three captains of a brand new 45′ Hatteras sport fishing boat that was making its way South sat next to us. They showed us video of their 30 knot trip South and we joked about their 80+ g/hr burn rate vs. our 1.2 g/hr rate. “Time is money” said one of the captains as they hurried out of the bar joking that they would not wake us at sunrise as their sprint South continued. Well it’s 6:30AM and we just watched them depart silently. I’m sure today will be another fun time here in Coinjock, NC.
MV Simple Life 
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