Dark Neuse

First light while anchored in the Alligator River is a nice way to start your day.

Anchored off East Lake, NC in the Alligator River

Getting Loopy

Last nights anchorage was peaceful. There was a light wind so we anchored far from the only lodge you can see lit up on the shore of East Lake, NC. I weigh anchor and do a loop around Effervescence IV.

A loop around Effervescence IV and heading for the deep area and the bridge

Debbie calls out “Good Morning” while standing on her bow. Glen and her are prepped to weigh anchor as we are looking to get underway before sunrise.

Effervescence IV at first light

Back in the Channel

As we make our way back to the channel and the Alligator River Swing Bridge the horizon starts to glow.

The sun is a coming…

Planned Route

The planned route for today is to travel at Simple Life’s efficient 6.5kts which will put us in Gale Creek as the sun sets. If we anchor in Gale Creek, in the morning we will motor out of the creek and into the Bay River => Neuse River => Adam’s Creek => Core Creek = Newport Marshes => Morehead City, NC and then south down Bogue Sound.

Morehead City is right next to Beaufort, NC where I often stop for an IPA in one of the many sailor bars there. Sometimes I opt to go out Beaufort entrance channel and run outside in the Atlantic down to Masonboro Inlet. I like to do this as it cuts out a few ICW areas where shoaling hazard occur. The hazzard areas correlate to where some of the inlets carry silt into the ICW. Inlets such as New River Inlet and New Topsail Inlet for instance.

This year Mother Ocean is not going to allow an outside transit as Hurricane Eta is raging in the Florida Keys and even this far north the forecast is for 5+ footers.

Near-shore forecast off Beaufort, NC
Hurricane Eta near the Florida Keys

As we approach the end of the Alligator River we make our way into the aptly named “Alligator River Pungo River Canal”. It’s a man-made cut through the land and I love to set my autopilot and see how long I can go before I have to make a correction.

AR-PR Canal

Parting Ways

While heading down the canal I can see my speed drop from 6.5kts to 6.1kts as we buck a current. It’s at this point that MV Effervescence IV hails me on the VHF asking if we can pick up the pace. I am aware that my pace is too slow for Glen and Debbie. Going this slow they will drop down to running on a single engine with the rudder over to keep her straight. At this point we decide that they will pass me and travel at a speed that is more appropriate for them. We wave and promise to find each other at some point further south.

Debbie snapped a photo and text’d it to me as she passed.
Picture thanks to Debbie Purcell

Dead Zone

The cell phone coverage is terrible in the canal. However, as expected, when you get close to either of the two bridges that cross you will get a signal while passing under.

Brief cell data connection

When you are at the helm and starring down at your phone, don’t forget to look up and spot these deadheads. Not the kind smoking weed at a Grateful Dead concert but the tree stump kind that just barely stick up out of the water.

Deadhead

The weather is amazing as I cruise along with both pilothouse doors open and Tyler Childers blaring out into the nothing that surrounds the canal.

A far cry from the snowy boat deck back in Warwick 8 days ago.

I find myself scratching my head as I pass this dock.

Hey Mr Builder, can you add a little more pitch to this corner of the roof?

A few days back was my post entitled ICW MM 0 and now I am passing a new ICW distance marker.

ICW Statute Mile 125

Easy Peasy Lemon Squeezy

Taking a boat south for the winter in the ICW is easy once you figure out the new methods of how to navigate the constantly changing ICW path. Just as I type and state how easy it is… I look up from my MacBook and see a depth of only 6.4′! Yikes, I was not paying attention while on autopilot and had slowly motored outside the narrow channel. A quick pull back of the throttle and course correction of 60 degree to port and I’m back safely in the channel.

I believe most groundings on the ICW happen as a result of lack of focus, distraction and not purposeful bad decisions. When you are navigating solo at a snails pace for 10-16 hours, day after day with little sleep, it’s easy to lose focus and run aground. When I read a Facebook Boating Group post about a captain running aground, I think… that could easily be me. I promised long ago never to snicker when hearing others throw shade at a captain who ran aground. There is a saying… “if you ain’t been aground, you ain’t been around”. Truth!

Aground on the ICW

The challenge to doing the ICW is… It’s a marathon not a sprint! Four years ago when I retired and set out running the ICW each Fall & Spring I could not wait to leave the bitter cold NE for warm and sunny Florida or the Bahamas. You spend sun up to sun down with your ass in the captains chair. Your desire to get there, has you pushing the throttle down. When you try to slow down you feel like …”I’m never going to get there!”. The trick is to relax and enjoy the ride. It took about two years for me to relax and just put-put along. When I’m foolish enough to give myself a schedule, I have learnt the proper way to “rush” is… not to go faster but… run longer into the day or night.

Finding Happiness

It takes time to slow down. I’m not laid-back but easy-going. Laid back people just don’t care about anything. I’m easy-going which is simply a way of saying rarely does anything bother me and when it does I usually say something like F-it and just go back to finding happiness some other way.

MBTI Perceiving or Judging?

Retirement gave me pause. Time to focus on understanding myself and what makes me happy. When you are so busy doing all the things that you “must do” you never know what you really “want to do”. Part of gaining a better understanding into who I am is studying personality profiling methods such as the MBTI (Myers-Briggs Type Indicator). I am a strongly-typed ENFP. Want to know what you are? Here is a free 100 question MBTI test that will tell you.

16 Personality Types – What type are you?

I always believed that everyone was obsessed like me with understanding the world around them and the meaning of life. I realize now that many spend their lives avoiding such questions as they just don’t have time or desire to seek such answers. I believe the answer is personal and everyone sees it different. Understanding the world around you and what’s inside of you will bring you happiness. For me … the meaning of life = pursuit of happiness. Knowing this helps me focus on living my best life. A simple Life. If you care to read about my Simple Life Philosophy, here is a link to it.

Simple Life

Once you begin to understand yourself and what you want out of life you can build yourself a mantra to act as a compass. This mantra is a quick way to remember how to make the many decisions you make each day.

Simple Life’s Mantra

  1. Free Will Trumps Destiny – Nothing happens for a reason. You cannot direct the winds but you can adjust your sails.
  2. Seek Truth – Understand the world and those around you. Tell the truth and seek those to offer you their true feelings. If you don’t know the truth, you can’t make a good decision.
  3. Stay Away From Stupid People – People who are acting stupid just don’t get it. They will cause you harm by simply being near them. Surround yourself with good people and they will bring happiness to your life.

Well anyway, back to my story about yesterday’s journey….

It’s getting late in the day. The sun is sinking low as I pass the RE Mayo Seafood company. I love seeing the large shrimp boats tied to their docks.

RE Mayo Seafood

As I make my way out into the Bay River the skyline is colorful.

Neuse River

I have decided to travel into the night to cover more ground. The moon will not rise in time so my trip down the Neuse River will be dark.

Neuse River at Night

I had to adjust my course a bit to avoid a beam sea as the winds blowing over Pamlico Sound have had a long fetch to build. Soon I am using my remote spotlight to spot pilings as I enter Adam’s Creek.

Red Daymarker Piling glowing in the dark when spotted.

I pull into tonights anchorage and it’s real shallow.

Danger Will Robinson!

Dead Low

I check the nearest tide station at the Core Creek Bridge to see if it will drop any lower leaving me aground?

I have arrived at dead low tide. Great news! Now anchored it’s time to enjoy a cold IPA and relax for the night.

Today’s 98NM route looked something like this…

The Great Dismal Swamp

As we got ready to depart Top Rack Marina we watched as several boats were splashed down by an oversized forklift.

We quickly cast off the lines and turned north putting Top Rack on our starboard side. Several boats remain in their slip for an extended stay.

Top Rack Marina

Our planned route would land us at the Dismal Swamp Visitor’s Center.

Top Rack Marina – Dismal Swamp Visitor’s Center

The Great Dismal Swamp

In the morning we turned north instead of south because we had to backtrack about a nautical mile to get back to where the ICW bifurcates between the Great Dismal Swamp route or the Virginia Cut. Most ICW cruisers chose the Virginia Cut route as it is the preferred route south.

We chose the path less traveled…

Start of the Great Dismal Swamp Route When Heading South

Hazards

The Dismal Swamp route is beautiful but notorious for duck weed clogging your engine’s sea strainers and “dead heads” (trees stumps just barely protruding above the water’s surface or sometimes just below).

Duck Weed Drifting Past
Deadhead

Being very familiar with the airline industry, I think Buddy & Renee might have an alternate definition of deadhead.

Alternate Definition: A dead head is an airline crew member, a pilot or a cabin crew, who is assigned to fly to a particular destination to assume a duty. In the flight where he or she is in, she’s not supposed to work as a crew. He or she shall be in a complete uniform, thus making him or her able to sit on a jumpseat if the flight is full. Deadheading crew are also paid based on their flying time.

Deep Creek Lock

The Dismal Swamp route requires you to pass through two locks rather than one via the Virginia Cut route. Heading south, the first of these locks is the Deep Creek Lock. This lock only opens at predefined times. Schedule: Opens 8:30am, 11:00am, 1:30pm, 3:30pm. We were a bit early so we dropped anchor in the middle of the channel to wait for the horn to sound that it was opening.

When the lock opened we weighed anchor and proceeded in following lock master Robert’s detailed instructions. We prefer when the lock master gives you explicit instructions and Robert was quick to let us know that he wanted us to hand him the stern line first. He asked for the middle of the line to be placed on the end of his boat hook leaving us to hold the bitter end. Robert would loop our lines over the bollards that line the edge of the lock. The rest of the yachts following us made their way into the lock behind us. .

Lock Master Robert has been working the lock for some time now and is full of colorful info about the history of the lock that involves George Washington.

Upon the last yacht exiting the lock, Robert explains that he is also the bridge tender for the next bridge around the corner. Robert must get in his car and drive down around the corner so he can operate the Deep Creek bascule bridge.

Deep Creek Bridge

Once under the bridge we waved goodbye to Robert as he stuck his head out of the bridge tender’s house.

Deep Creek Lock Master Robert Saying Goodbye

Through the lock you instantly notice that the duck weed has gone from sporadic to a floating carpet of green.

Eventually you arrive at the state line heading into North Carolina.

NC State Line

Next up… The Great Dismal Swamp visitor’s Center.

Dismal Swamp Visitor Center by Boat or Car

Arriving first at the Visitor Center’s tiny dock we quickly set fenders not only on the dock-side but also the canal-side. This would allow the boats following us to raft alongside us. Soon we would be jumping onto some of the other boats that were already docked there to help the boats behind us tie up to the other boats. Luckily the boats already there had their fenders set expecting possible raft-up buddies.

Swamp Friends

Once we were docked I went out to the foredeck to invite the other captains and crew to come aboard MV Simple Life for a cocktail or two.

Kim & Curt on the Flydeck of MV Blue Rhapsody

In no time at all every captain and crew would find themselves squeezed into the pilothouse. It was clear within seconds that this group would become our Swamp Friends.

Swamp Friends

What a fun time we had. The boater talk was non-stop and eventually turned to either “batteries or poop” as we often joke.

Soon it was dinner or supper time (depending on your definition of dinner) and each crew returned to their boats as we prepared sausage, pepper & onion subs with red sauce.

Trevor & Jess

As we were preparing dinner a friendly couple yelled “hell0” from out on the dock. Buddy was talking at them through the window and quickly asked them if they would like to come aboard. They accepted and came aboard for some conversation, drinks and dinner.

Trevor, Jess & Capt Mahty

From the moment Trevor and Jess came aboard we became fast friends. The couple has a YouTube channel called 9to5Less so please checkout their channel and subscribe.

Trevor and Jess light up a room the moment they walk in. These two had us laughing so hard about their misadventures aboard their houseboat as well as a catamaran that they were in the process of restoring while they cruising up the ICW.

Upon learning that their boat lacked proper lighting we knew we had found a new home for the two solar lights aboard MV Simple Life.

Trevor to Starboard, Jess to Port

They stayed until our sides hurt from laughing. We wished them well on their future cruising and told them we were sure we’d cross paths again.

You meet the coolest people in the swamp.