SJP Marina

It is 4:50AM in Topsail, NC. The engine coolant temp was showing 91 degrees. Still warm from running the night before.

Topsail Creeping…

I crept past MV Doghouse around 6:30AM.

Sitting peaceful on anchor.

Sloop Creek

I made my way back out of Sloop Creek making sure the boat’s path stayed in deep water.

Crimes Against Food

What I do to food is a crime in most states.

Misc pasta with tuna and mayo and Cajun hot spice & pepper.

Somebody has a beautiful home along the ICW.

Love the wrap-around porch

I’m now passing ICW statue mile marker 280.

ICW Mile Marker

Wrightsville Beach Bridge

I am waiting for the opening of the Wrightsville Beach bascule bridge at the top of the 9th hour.

Wrightsville Beach Bridge

Bridge Tender Marina

Just on the other side of Wrightsville Beach Bridge is Bridge Tender Marina. Lots of boat porn as you motor past. Every boater prides him or herself on boat brand recognition. I struggle to recognize each of the boat manufactures as I slowly pass making sure not to wake the boats in the marina. Can you recognize any boat manufacturers? I zoomed in to find badging on a few but sometimes I look up the boat name in the USCG documented boat online search to find the manufacturer.

Speedsters

As I approach Carolina Beach, NC several large Sportfisher boats begin overtaking me. One after another.

Snow’s Cut

All these boats are now ahead of me as we turn into Snow’s Cut on the ICW.

I hear one of the boats hail another boat and ask to pass. I think to myself… this is not a good place to pass as I look down at my USACE hydrology overlay. I can see that the water is swift on the outside but slows on the inside, dropping sediment from the slow water and creating shallows.

Snow’s Cut near Carolina Beach, NC

I am about to hail the inside boat when I hear one of the Sportfishers call out on the VHF that it’s shallow in there and instructs the boat on the inside of the turn to turn back towards the outside of the turn. No boats grounded in that moment and any damage to propellers was avoided due to that heads up VHF call.

This sailboat at the other end of Snow’s Cut was not so lucky avoiding the shallows.

Sailboat hard aground

Cape Fear River

Snow’s Cut dumps you into the Cape Fear River and I am slowly passing a clam shell bucket dredge. Reminds me of that toy that little kids play with in the sand box.

Clam Shell Bucket Dredge in the Cape Fear River

I pass a tug with a large barge on a hip tow.

Tug with a barge in the Cape Fear River

Southport, NC

Now reaching where the ICW departs from the Cape Fear River I look over and see the famous Frying Pan restaurant. Named after Frying Pan Shoals found extending offshore from Southport, NC.

SJP Marina

Moments later I was running around the topsides of the boat while it’s driving itself on autopilot. I am setting fenders on both sides of the boat and prepping my dock lines so that I can back into my slip and tie her up. When I looked up I was actually going by the entrance to SJP Marina and had to run up and turn back a bit. There are moments when I’m running around performing the first mate’s job and the boat is just driving itself.

As I pull into the marina I see my friend Jim standing on the docks pointing me towards a slip.

SL docked in SJP

Load Up the Fridge

It’s alway a great feeling to pull into SJP and see Jim and Wende. They always extend a warm welcome and this time they were nice enough to pickup groceries for me so when I landed in the slip Jim was handing me grocery bags. I wasted no time in pulling out the griddle and frying up a large amount of peppers, onions and steak & potatoes. I like to fill my refrigerator full of precooked food. While I’m underway I can simply reheat food in the microwave. If I’m really in a pinch… I make the Cap’n Special which is microwave rice in the rice cooker with nacho chips and Stubbs Sweet Heat BBQ sauce and cheese. Yummy and simple.

Catching up with Jim & Wende

Later that night Jim and Wende would stop by with subs and beer and we enjoyed catching up in the cockpit of MV Simple Life. I look forward to hopefully seeing them again on my return trip north in April 2021. Jim surprised me with some local North Carolina IPAs.

Appalachian Mountain Brewery Long Leaf IPA – Yummy
Wicked Weed Brewing – Appalachian Session IPA

I was so busy enjoying myself I forgot to take a picture of the three of us for the SL blog. Next time!

SJP Marina is a beautiful location.

Today’s short 46NM journey looked something like this…

W04L010 – 46NM from Topsail Beach to St. James Plantation.

SJP For a Few Nights

The leg to St. James Plantation looked approximately like what’s pictured below.

Marine Base Camp Lejeune to St. James Plantation, NC

We made hash, eggs and bacon while underway.

Capt’s Favorite

As you approach Wrightsville Beach from the north you must request an opening of the Figure Eight Swing Bridge.

We passed these small boats trawling nets behind them. I believe they were going after bait fish that were schooling around us.

Small Boat Trawling a Net

As you approach the Cape Fear river you must first pass through Snow’s Cut that connects Carolina Beach with the Cape Fear river.

This old bridge base seems to be a popular hangout of the young kids

Once in the Cape Fear river you will find large ship and ferry terminals.

As we continued down river we had to cut through a sailing regatta. It was a halloween regatta and you guessed it… Pirate costumes were everywhere.

As we worked our way around the southern tip of Southport you could see it was standing room only on the back deck of the Fish Company restaurant and bar.

American Fish Company – Southport, NC

Map showing Cape Fear River and Southport, NC

Bald Head Island is a nice stop

As you round Southport the river narrows and the current was running strong against us. We passed this derelict commercial boat along the way.

Soon we were inside the small harbor of St. James Plantation. Our friends were kind enough to offer us their slip for however long we wished to stay. So nice to have friends like this 🙂 The slip was about 16 feet wide and it was a tight fit due to the kayaks stowed on either side of the fly deck. Luckily we have bow & stern thrusters and with the help of our friends who were waiting for us… we squeezed straight back into the slip.

Once docked we got to meet the Craig Thompson who graciously offered up his slip to us.

Craig giving us a thumbs up

We had lots of fun aboard Craig’s new 36′ Tiara Open. A beautiful boat for fishing off Cape Fear.

Jim, Marty, Renee

We got to enjoy a few cocktails with our feet up aboard Simple Life.

I always enjoy seeing Jim & Wende (who was in quarantine due to not feeling well, Get better soon!). It’s always lots of fun and this stay we were able to not only complete our provisioning (thanks for the use of your truck, Jim) but Jim also brought us a leaf blower so we could blow out our clothes dryer vent hose without needing to remove it.

Who know I should carry a leaf blower Simple Life?

We caught some football on the boobtube.

GB vs. LAC

Buddy & Renee did some kayaking around the St. James Marina and ICW.

Buddy & Renee

We thoroughly enjoyed our stay at St. James Marina. Jim came down to say goodbye and we snapped this pool noodle pic. Jim likes to start new fashion trends and we are thinking this could be all the rage!

Thanks Jim!

Next stop Charleston, SC!

St James NC & Friends

We had spent the night on anchor in Mile Hammock Bay. The shore around this bay is on the property of Camp Lejeune. Marine Corps Base Camp Lejeune is a 246-square-mile United States military training facility in Jacksonville, North Carolina. The base’s 14 miles of beaches make it a major area for amphibious assault training, and its location between two deep-water ports allows for fast deployments.

Mile Hammock Bay, Camp Lejeune

I woke up in the middle of the night and it was cold.

Cold Camp Lejeune

I spent some time in awe of the stars that felt so close you could touch them. I’d have taken a picture of them but it just doesn’t work when you’re aboard a rocking boat.  It reminds me that we are all spinning around on a rock in space surrounded by an endless cosmos. I like feeling small and insignificant in the cosmos. It means my life is more intimate. I chose to spend it with the folks around me and that is what gives it meaning. 

It was still dark at 6:30AM as I was pulling out of the bay and onto the ICW. Disappointed that I could not share a picture of how amazing it was to lay under the stars I thought I’d leave the helm and walk to the stern to snap a picture of the proto-sunrise that was taking shape behind us.

Proto-Sunrise

Whenever I leave the helm on the ICW you must be quick. There are many times you find yourself looking down at an iPhone or iPad to measure the distance to the next bridge or calculate your arrival at your planned anchor location. Take your eye off the helm for more than 10 seconds and you may find that you’ve run over a crap pot, hit a shoal or just ran into the bank of the ICW.  This fellow ICW boater ran aground when his teenage daughter spaced out while at the helm. The boat and crew were fine and while it can be embarrassing it’s something that can happen to anyone when you’re pulling 10-12 hour days staring at the helm and things passing you by. 

whoops

Soon we were passing Carolina beach and the grasslands are beautiful. 

Carolina Beach NC

We passed a pink house on it’s own rock island with a dock leading out to it. 

As we made our way South we came to Snow’s Cut. A ‘cut’ is a canal that has literally been ‘cut’ through land to form a canal for boats to travel from one river to another. It appears as if this abandon bridge is a popular place for teen parties.

Capt

Next it was into the Cape Fear River. This river is deep and has a strong current. You must stay clear of the larger traffic in the channel like this tug pushing an LNG tanker.

Tug & LNG Tanker

To get to the marina we were going to spend two nights at we had to turn to starboard at the Frying Pan Restaurant. I recall seeing photos of this restaurant during Hurricane Florence. The restaurant was flooded. I can’t tell for sure but they look to be up and running as we passed?

Frying Pan Restaurant

If you are familiar with Cape Fear you’d know that this restaurant is named after the famous Frying Pan Shoals that extend out some 15 miles off the coast of NC. 

There is an abandoned tower that marks Frying Pan Shoals and guy bought it at auction and is now making a bed & breakfast out fo the tower that lies some 39 miles off the coast of Cape Fear. How cool would it be to stay for a night? Here is a video of someone dropping a camera off the tower and down into the water. By the way to get into the tower you must be hoisted up on a cable.

Frying Pan Tower B&B

We arrived at St. James Marina and were excited to spend some time with friends. Jim was just getting back from a fishing trip out to the gulf stream some 50 miles of the coast of Cape Fear. The weather was rough so I think it was a wet salty ride back in this fast open fishing boat. 

The Marina is a beautiful place to spend time and it was worth the trip. Our trip looked something like this. 

St. James Plantation with Friends

We are leaving St. James Plantation Marina in Southport, NC this morning but made a promise to come back and spend more time with our friends Jim & Wende. They were very gracious hosts while we were here and we got to share in the experience of being in a “private town”. So very interesting though I must say Kelly & I will have to investigate exactly what that means?

Wende Kelly Jim Marty

Thanks Jim & Wende, you showed us a great night off the boat and we promise to come back and spend more time.

The night before we had anchored in Sloop Point, NC and the trip down to Southport was an interesting one. We saw heavy equipment dredging around what looked like a new pier going in. I know what salt water does to steel and I still shudder at the thought of dipping an excavator’s arm into salty water. I’m sure the water in the ICW is brackish but still.

Dredging Excavators

I was checking my ICW bridge list and realized that I would not make the Figure Eight Swing Bridge in time for their restricted opening time. This meant that I would be waiting for the next opening. However the bridge tender who I had hailed on the VHF asked me about my air-draft. Your “draft” is your vessels depth in the water and your “air-draft” is your vessel’s height above the water. I replied that I believed it was somewhere between 21-22 feet. The bridge tender remarked that he currently had 22′ of clearance. Every bridge along the ICW has a “height board” that is partially submerged under the water with height markers at the waterline. While all bridges on your nautical charts will list their height at an average high tide, the actual vertical clearance varies with the height of the water. The bridge tender offered to come out of his office and stand under the bridge to check my clearance if I wished to approach the bridge slowly. This can be a tricky maneuver as there was a current pushing Simple Life toward the bridge. I slowly edged the boat idling in reverse to the bridge and bridge tender assured me that I had a good 6″ of gap between the top of our boat and the bottom of the bridge. MV Simple Life’s air-draft is 21′ 6″.

Below is a stock photo of the Figure Eight Swing Bridge as I was too busy at the helm to snap pictures. You can see I circled the “height board” and at the time this picture was taken there was slightly less water under the bridge giving even more clearance than the 22′ we had the other day.

Figure Eight Swing Bridge

Just a few more miles down the ICW and we had to pass through the Wrightsville Beach Bascule Bridge located at statute mile 278 along the ICW. This is a restricted bridge that only opens on the top of the hour.

Wrightsville Beach Bascule Bridge

As we continued on to Cape Fear (Southport, NC) we were delighted at the scenery.

High Sandy BluffOcean InletMarshy Islands

Dock at Water Level

We passed many Atlantic Ocean inlets that had high sandy bluffs and marshy islands dotting the entrances. You could see and hear the surf breaking in the shallow inlets and it makes for nice scenery. The last of those 4 photos is one of a fixed dock that just barely exceeds the height of the water level. Interesting choice of fixed dock heights as this surely must be slightly submerged at times? Slightly submerged docks must be fun to walk along but just like submerged rock jetties that often protect many of the ports we enter they can be dangerous if boats come into contact with them.

As we got the point where the ICW connects with the Cape Fear River via “Snow’s Cut” we were passed by a US Army Corp of Engineers survey boat. These folks use sophisticated sonar to accurately probe the depths of these constantly changing waterways. He kindly slowed down as he passed and got back on plane once he was in front of us. However, just then the VHF crackled on channel 16, “Trawler in Snow’s Cut, are you OK?”. I quickly answered the hail with “comeback to the trawler in Snow’s Cut”. It was a boat in a marina that was hailing us stating that they “saw what had happened”. I replied, “If you are referring to the ACE boat that passed us, yes we are OK”. I found this communication amusing and I can only guess that the survey boat had passed the marina giving a large wake and making the marina boat unhappy and maybe this was her way of shaming the ACE boat publicly on the VHF?

US ACE Survey Boat

Snow’s Cut Graffiti

It would seem the kids in Snow’s Cut like to party at this old bridge abutment. “Party on” Capt B.

Once in the Cape Fear River it became quickly apparent from the size of the docks that extend out into the river that this river is used by large ships. Passing these behemoths must be done at a distance.

A quick turn back onto the ICW, by a dilapidated building and we arrived at St. James Marina.

Dilapidated Building

St. James Marina

Time to push on to Georgetown, SC where we’ll update with a new post of what we saw along the way.