After getting a late morning start leaving Vero Beach, we decided on a short route that ended in an AC anchorage called “Bluefish Point”.
We use a app called Charts&Tides on both our iPhones and iPad that has integration with ActiveCaptain.com. AC is a website where boaters enter their favorite local anchorages, marinas, local knowledge (where the closest Westmarine.com store is) and hazards they are aware of or hit may have hit in their travels. This information is loaded into a small text database and iPad navigation apps can use your AC login to download for offline integration into the charting and plotting app.
The pic below is an example of the kind of AC information that can be pulled up by clicking on a AC green square icon in the app.
If you click on reviews you’ll find notes from AC Captains like ourselves about how best to approach, depths, currents, seabed type, onshore restaurants, etc.
Our route looked something like this:
It was a short run but along the way we were passed by several boats and this is one example of the type of VHF communications you can expect.
When passing a boat on the ICW: The overtaking boat should hail the stand-on vessel by name or description. MV Simple Life transmits our name on AIS as well as large letters on our stern. As the stand on vessel you should lower your speed to idle or the slowest speed that you can still maintain control at. The stand-on vessel should maintain a straight course and the overtaking vessel should reduce speed till their wake will not rock the boat being passed excessively. If the boat being overtaken does not slow down then the passing boat has no option but to increase speed and wake the boat as they pass. Large boats on the ICW can really rock you if they refuse to slow down. As a captain your learn that you are responsible for your own wake and any damage or injury that it causes to the boats you pass.
As we passed Sebastian, FL just North of Vero Beach and saw many great restaurants with live music and while tempted to drop anchor and go for some beer & live music, we pushed on. We need to cover as much ground in the next few days that we can.
We passed an interesting small island that looks like it would be fun to setup a beach chair and few hours relaxing on.
After coming out of the Okeechobee Waterway we anchored just off Hutchinson’s Island. This anchorage is just inside the St. Lucie Inlet and while it’s not an official anchorage, it worked for us.
Our crew was was looking a little banged up. Kelly with a broken toe (again)
Chief Martin Brody with a sore paw after ripping a claw off one of his toes.
Thankfully the captain survived to patch the crew back up.
As departed Hutchinson’s Island and made our way North towards Vero Beach I did some quick math on our speed and expected time of arrival. We had told the Suntex Marina in Vero Beach that we would be there before 5PM. With the late start that meant that we were going to have to burn a little fuel and step up our speed from a leisurely 6 kts to something North of 8 kts.
Having dolphins on your bow is something that happens daily in Southern Florida.
Soon we were docked in Vero Beach and it was time to go out to dinner with Lori & Jim @ the Bonefish grille. The food was great and we always have a blast hanging with Lori & Jim.
Back at the marina I found another North Pacific 43. This couple is from Canada and they have some interesting modifications to their NP43. For one they added backup mirrors to the outside of the life rails (I wonder if you can actually use these backing in from the pilothouse?).
I also found a fellow boater from Duxbury, MA here in the Marina.
While we were in the marina the weather turned stormy. Sitting in the pilothouse you could see the wind blowing hard over the water’s surface.
From our aft cockpit you could stay dry as the rain poured down.
We even got some hail hitting the boat and landing in the cockpit.
We had lots of fun in Vero Beach but alas we must keep making our way North to get home and see more family and friends. As we headed out onto the ICW we past many beautiful homes that reminded us how nice Vero Beach is to visit.
Leaving Fort Meyers Beach we navigated our way out of the Northern entrance Channel.
We made a last-minute decision to skip Captiva Island in favor of entering the Okeechobee Waterway.
Upon entering the Caloosahatchee River we passed many interesting sights.
Like these folks who just beached the boat and were enjoying the day.
Then this house boat that I think had mannequins on the upper deck and an “Open for business sign”
Soon we were looking for a place to anchor and found a nice little turn in the Caloosahatchee right next to FPL – Florida Power and Light Power plant.
at night the Plant could be seen against the night sky.
The next morning we weighed anchor and headed further down the river. We passed many houses..
Some homes for sale included an airfield so you could simply fly in for the weekend.
Some farms had cows.
Some had horses.
Some like this home had a beautiful blue hulled Flemming trawler docked on the river.
We passed under and requested a few bridge openings.
One particular bridge required contacting a woman over the VHF and waiting for her to walk out to the center of the bridge and have her swing the bridge open. She was very nice and wished us a safe passage as we motored through.
We soon passed this young girl who seemed to be hiding from the world.
We had to passed through many Locks. Some were a walk in the park but one was full of DRAMA.
At one lock, I was working the lines by myself when I realized that I could not cleat both bow and stern and run fast enough between them to slip the lines. As the water poured into the lock chamber it pushed our full keel away from the concrete lock wall and I lost hold of the bow line. MV Simple Life instantly started to go sideways in the strong current. I had to quickly let go of the stern line and run for the helm. I quickly got the boat in gear and reversed the sideways spin.
Next the thrusters shutdown due to thermal overload and left me with a full-keel and a single engine, fighting to keep the boat from hitting the lock walls or the boats behind us. It was a drama filled full forward / reverse, hard over from stop to stop with the wheel. Kelly came running up and asked what she could do but at that point there wasn’t anything to be done but keep the boat from smashing into the walls, boats, or lock doors. By the time the drama ended, a lesson had been learned. I’ll call that “experience” one day. Never take the lock lines of the cleats and place the fenders as far forward and stern as possible and lastly, use the boat hook to fend-off the concrete walls as the boat twists in the current.
I don’t have a video of the moment of drama but I do have this videos of much more serene lock passings.
We arrived at Lake Okeechobee before sunset but had to tie to a dock because the last lock was closed for the evening. We tied to a small dock next to the larger Moore Haven City Docks. We had to google to find the small dock owner’s name and phone number. We called and found out that he was out-of-town on a family emergency but we found a way to pay him through the DockWa app.
The next morning we shoved off the dock but had to wait for a train bridge that was in the down position.
Since we were waiting on the train anyways, I decided to pull into a marina near the bridge and see if they had any ice. What an interesting stop. I walked up to the marina shack and found a group of men just kicking back in chairs sharing some beer and watching the day pass. They greeted me with a smile and complemented my docking skills. I reminded them that when you have a bow & stern thruster it can make a spinning docking maneuver look easy. They were so friendly, I sat down and talked with them for a while. The marina owner explained that he recently purchased the marina and I asked why he was not on ActiveCaptain.com? He said he was sure that he was on AC but after I showed him I had the latest copy of the AC DB and he was not on it.
The friendly gentleman asked if I could help get him into AC. I spent some time trying before finally emailing AC with my request and I received an email back from Karen Siegal, who I recognized as one of the co-founders of AC. I explained that AC as well as DockWa were two applications that will drive 90% of all transient docking business and we departed with a bag of ice and some fishing gear that I purchased while there.
Once in Lake Okeechobee it was beautiful. Full of amazing trees, birds and alligators.
Lake Okeechobee was very windy and choppy. The crossing had spray hitting the pilothouse windows be inside we were warm and dry.
Out the back you could watch the brown lake water as it boiled up from below.
There are two Easterly routes to the St Lucie river on the Eastern side of Lake O. We decided not to take route #2 often called the Southern Rim Route as it traverses the small towns on the south lake shore. Instead, we took route #1 which crosses in somewhat of a straight line directly to Port Mayaca lock on the Eastern shore.
Upon arrival at the Eastern shore, the lock was closed so we simply dropped anchor right next to lock entrance channel.
The sunset was amazing. We watched as it slowly sank beneath the lake. Then it was gone.
The next morning we entered the St. Lucie river and passed several interesting sights.
At one point the weather turned bad and local radar images showed we were getting hit with some strong winds and rain. We lowered the flags and closed the windows and pushed on till it passed over us.
Soon we exited the St. Lucie River right at the Saint Lucie Inlet and found a nice little anchorage spot just North of the inlet.
Coming into Fort Meyers Beach you see the same white sand found at Marco Island. Just amazing beaches. We entered using the Northern entrance channel.
It’s all a no wake zone so about 5 knots of headway for us. We ducked under the 65’ Matanzas Pass Bridge and grabbed a mooring ball from Mantanzas Harbor Mooring Field. It’s a town mooring field but administered by Mantanzas Inn. Running a mooring field requires not just the divers to inspect the mooring anchors, chains, balls and pennant lines…
…but also someone to answer the phone, VHF, fill out the paper work and collect the money as well as enforce the rules. Sometimes you have boats that run gas-powered gensets on deck late into the night. When in the Key West mooring field a boat finally shut off their loud generator around 10PM and another boat yelled “THANK YOU” across the mooring field. I spontaneously laughed aloud but the boater with the generator had some sharp words back. Funny but not.
Upon arrival I couple, Dave & Megan & Athena (the dog) passed by in a dinghy and offered to thread my lines though the mooring ball which just like Boot Key Harbor or Key West cannot easily be pulled up to reach MV Simple Life’s foredeck. D & M announced they were on their way to a cruiser’s raft-up and extended an invite to us. I was glad they did and I had a blast meeting the FMB cruisers within minutes of arrival. They were full great stories and laughs.
Yes, that is a Macaw parrot on Doug’s shoulder. see top-left corner.
The next morning we had to go into the Mooring field office and register using our boat registration paperwork. This is something that you don’t have to do when getting on a ball up North. Up North a the mooring field or launch boat pulls alongside your boat and they ask the name of the boat and collect the money. In Florida most the moorings we rented required not just the registration of the big boat but also the dinghy as well as insurance paperwork. I now carry digital copies of all on my iPhone.
We wasted no time in finding lunch at Matanzas Inn Restaurant.
Also spent some time in the upstairs at night listening to the local singers perform.
I would have posted the video instead but the karaoke singing would have made your ears bleed.
While there I took a dinghy ride around San Carlos Island.
Approaching Hurricane Bridge you’ll pass a few cruisers who look like they have been anchored there for a bit.
Then duck under the Hurricane Pass Bridge and into Hurricane Bay.
Once under the bridge you are in Hurricane Bay and I stopped to snap a few photos of a derelict house boat aground.
The No Wake Zone ends and it was time to open the dinghy up and capture some sunset photos from Hurricane Bay.
While we were here in FMB a close family friend, Capt Mike Spinney came down on his boat and offered to give me a tour of FMB.
Mike and his friend Dave took me for a high-speed run all around FMB.
What fun to go from our normal 6kts to 35kts!
Capt Spin was quick to see that the dolphins were trailing us and mentioned that if you boost your wake a bit you can get them to do some jumps. As if right on cue..
We took a trip down to Lovers Key where there is a great white sand beach that all the boaters pull up right onto the beach and enjoy the day.
Then it was on to the Lani Kai Beach Resort a hot spot for Spring Breakers here in FMB.
Back at the boat I said goodbye to Mike and Dave and they gave us a wave as they departed through the mooring field.
Next stop, Captiva Island and the Okeechobee Waterway.
Marco Island is wonderful. The trip here from the Everglades was a 10 hour slow trip through a hazy Gulf of Mexico.
Looking out the cockpit windows at times it seemed that the horizon simply faded into the pale green water.
haze
more haze
more haze
more haze
At one point in the journey we noticed something floating on the water and thought we should investigate. From a distance I could not tell what it was..
Something floating from afar
As we got closer it appeared to be a floating box of sorts. Maybe it was some kind of hatch cover off a boat?
Piece of a boat?
As we entered the Marco Island entrance channel you could see the large buildings with the white sandy beaches. I believe hurricane Irma hit Marco island pretty hard but read that they were able to recover quickly and reopen their beaches for tourists.
There was a moment from that I could not figure out what the bright white lining the shore was. I’m not used to seeing beaches so white?
Nice white beaches
Condo or resort?
Tall buildings as you enter Marco Island
As we made our way in Capri Pass we passed people having fun on tubes as well as the Key West Express. For folks on the West coast of Florida Marco Island would seem a great jumping off point to get to Key West.
Looks like fun
I wonder how long a trip to Key West on something as fast at this?
Soon we found a great anchor spot just outside the channel North West of Green Daymark #15. The current was strong but the holding great.
Our Anchor spot in Marco Island. Follow the orange route line to the outlined boat with heading line projected off bow.
Anchoring here puts you right in front of the “World Famous Snook Inn”. It was time to drop the dink and go for some drinks.
At the Snook Inn bar
Looking out from the Snook Inn you could see MV Simple Life on anchor.
You can see MV Simple Life from our table at the Snook Inn in Marco Island.
You can also watch the many boats who sail on by. They have a custom of doing a close sail by the front windows of the Snook Inn and blowing their horn followed by waving at the folks in the restaurant. It was fun to watch the boats go by.
Beautiful blue Sabre
I love the 3 boxers in the cockpit
Love the woman’s head graphic on the aft
On our way back we tried to get a selfie of us in the dink in front of our boat. We could not stop spinning in the current and the shade from our camera just seemed like an eclipse shadow that we could not shake.
Selfie – Take 1
Selfie – Take 2
Selfie – Take 3
Selfie – Take 4
Ok. Give it up.
While we were on anchor in Cudjoe Key a stray line became fouled in our propeller. MV Simple Life has a “pot cutter” on our propeller shaft and it did the job of cutting the line. However, we now had a slight vibration in the running gear at higher RPMs. I decided I should dive on the propeller and attempt to untangle any line from the propeller. While my heart may be on the water, I’m not very comfortable being “in the water”. Diving on a boat propeller while on anchor with current and sharp instruments in your hand turned out to be more difficult than expected. However after several attempts and even cutting my head after being banged into the hull, I managed to cut the offending line free.
I don’t like diving to untangle lines from our prop. Time for a beer!
The spot we picked to anchor is in a “no wake” zone and passing traffic was super polite about passing us super slow.
After seeing the local sheriff pull over this pair of wave runners I get the feeling the sheriff enforces this no-wake zone.
The Sheriff enforces the no-wake zone here
The calm anchorage made for some beautiful sunsets.
These little buggers will rip the flesh from your bones.
We weighed anchor and pulled away from Crane Key in the Florida Keys. The route out of Cudjoe Key was shallow but easy to avoid the shoals if you pay attention.
The crossing from the FL Keys to the Everglades was pretty uneventful as there was plenty of water, no wind and no boats in sight.
Once we entered Shark River you could see mangrove trees and muddy tributaries everywhere. The shores were alive with all sorts of birds and other critters. I get the feeling that nobody walks ashore here. I saw a pack of what appeared to be coyotes running along the shore at sunrise.
I read up on ActiveCaptain.com about “Little Shark River Bay Anchorage” and I can say that where other captains said they found 7’ of water I found 4’ and had to back out of the soft mud that caused us to select a new anchor location alongside a catamaran that was already anchored. The catamaran was lined up with the wind, but we lined up with the current. MV Simple Life has a full keel that the current likes to push on. The catamaran’s mini-keels (I did not see daggerboards) did not overcome the wind effect.
We quickly picked up the anchor and moved up the river to find a new anchoring spot. I found a spot just behind a single line of sailboats who had anchored in the river.
The winds soon died and the No-See-Ums came and they ate us alive. One minute we were enjoying cocktails on the stern and the next minute the whole boat was overtaken by these miniature monsters.
They came in unabated by our screens and proceeded to rip the flesh from our bones. We should have worn our foul weather gear to bed because when we awoke we were itchy and bumpy.
We have No-See-Um screens on our 2 overhead hatches but our port-lights and salon screens are only mosquito screens. Who knew these little buggers would pass right through our screens like the Fast-Lane at a toll booth?
I think Kelly needs to sew us up some screens like this other boating couple.
Kelly & I took turns at scratching each other in the early AM. The sun had not even risen and we were already preparing to weigh anchor and motor our home out of the Everglades.
We plotted a course to Marco Island. Hoping for a cell phone tower and a more enjoyable anchorage.
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