Hurricane Ian runs over the top of MV Simple Life

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Invest 98 Where you going?

Note:: I’m crudely writing this blog post with little to no internet but want to update readers with what happened here.

NOTE: This blog post will update more when I have time and internet so please check back later..

Spaghetti Model for Invest 98

Before they are named storms they are atmospheric disturbances that need to be investigated.

Lynny’s guess was spot on!

Start of Hurricane Ian

Jim Cantore appears on scene…not good

When we’ll-known SWFL hurricane hunting weatherman, Jim Cantore, checked into a hotel down the street in Punta Gorda we all nervously joked that it was not a good omen.

Water is Retreating

MV Simple Life is berthed just inside the entrance channel of BSM (Burnt Store Marina). The westerly wind’s friction with the ocean was creating a surface current and driving all the water out the marina entrance.

I rely on the Windfinder Pro app on my iPhone for predicted wind speed and direction forecasting.

https://apps.apple.com/us/app/windfinder-pro-wind-weather/id336901296

In the above screen capture video, you can see that blue dot is MV Simple Life in BSM. The wind was predicted to blow the marina’s water back out into Charlotte Harbor.

Many boats were sitting on the bottom
Others left hanging by tight dock lines

Getting your dock lines set to allow for such a drop and surge can be difficult and will come down to how low/high you think you will go, the line lengths you have available and cleat locations in relationship to pilings.

Winds
64 knots and gusting to 128 knots

The winds were now 64 knots and gusting to 128 knots.

Dinghies we’re now capable of flight
Blowing 135 knots and gusts hitting 199 knots.

It’s now blowing 135 knots and I see my slip neighbor run outside from a neighboring condo to adjust his dinghy line to stop it from smashing into his sailboat. I quickly strap on a bicycle helmet, life jacket and a jacket to go help him. It’s extremely dangerous should the winds blow you off the dock alone. I climbed down off MV Simple Life and onto the docks but my neighbor friend is nowhere to be found. Then out of the corner of my eye I see him back on land waving his arms to get my attention. He was wisely making his way back to the safety of the condo so I climbed back aboard my boat as it was bouncing to and fro.

The Eye of Ian

All boats are sitting on the bottom

In the above video, just before the eye centered on the marina, I jumped onto the docks to see the condition of my fellow boaters and the marina.

Above is another video shot while Ian’s eye was nearly over us. You can see my VHF antenna has snapped. I decided to quickly tape it down so it did not get ripped off.

While cell phone texts were not going through in real-time I could occasionally receive texts from the other two boaters around me who elected to stay aboard during the storm to hopefully save their own boats.

NWS alerts were periodically sounding off on my iPhone. I was now busy making adjustments and adding lines everywhere I could to prepare for act II of Ian.

Pine island at the center of Ian’s eye

Once the eye arrived the storm surge began rushing into the marina.

The boats were quickly lifted off the bottom and even the birds floating on the surface could not paddle fast enough to keep from being pushed backwards in the flow. See the end of the video below

The rush of water just kept coming and I knew I only had a moment before I needed to be back at the helm.

When the backside of the Ian arrived it was far worse for MV Simple Life. The wind direction did a 180 degree shift and was now blowing straight in off Charlotte Harbor. There is nothing in the way to protect MV Simple Life from the wind and waves. The stern of our boat is large and flat. My twin 8” diameter diesel exhausts we getting water forced backwards in towards the engines. Simple Life was pulling so hard on the two pilings behind my stern. I doubled up my lines prior to the the storm. The pilings began to rock back and forth as my boat and my neighbor’s pulled hard on them. If I pull these pilings over Simple Life will smash bow first into the dock and being the first boat in the marina I could only imagine a cascading failure as I keep hitting boats and docks in front of me with the wind pushing me from behind.

Engines in Reverse!

I quickly started the diesels to keep any water out of the engines. My yacht is 70K+ lbs. with large 5 blade props that were now running in reverse to take the strain off the pilings behind me. Occasionally, I would hear floating debris hit the propellers and flying debris hit the boat.

Boarded up Cockpit Doors

I had boarded up the twin cockpit doors which was protecting them from being blown out from the high winds and flying debris. The water was blowing through the door and running across the saloon floor.

I’m feeling good that the other windows are extremely thick and impact resistant.

Watching Wind Meter

My wind meter is mounted on the top of the boats arch. It has been recording wind speeds above 100-150 MPH with a highest gust recorded of 202 MPH. Shortly after that the wind meter was ripped from the boat.

I’m pointing to the 202 MPH max recorded speed

I had a couch that I could not get off the Flybridge and had attempted to tie down. I watched as it was levitated off the flydeck by the wind and dropped back down. This happened 3 or 4 times but suddenly it just lifted straight up and flew off about 30’ high and flying fast.

The Time to Get Off Has Past

Looking out the pilothouse windows at the docks I see they are 3-4 feet beneath the fast flowing storm surge. The water is black and you are not really sure where the docks beneath that murky surface. A few of the planks that make up the walking surface had been ripped off making the possibility of having your foot/leg fall through.

No access to shore

Getting off the boat now is no longer an option.

Hatch Rips Open

I was at the pilothouse helm when the flydeck hatch ripped open and the wind and water was blasting in on me. I ran quickly and managed to get ahold of it. I struggled to get it closed but each wind gust was lifting me off the floor. I in a situation where the boat is running in reverse, I’m not at the helm but trying to find some way to secure the hatch.

Lucky for me… arms length away was a fender with a short length of rope that I wrapped around the broken hatch arm. It held just long enough for me to run and get some cordage and add more lines to it. If it rips off I’m screwed. I quickly ran Dow into the engine room looking for a solution that would secure it for good when I spied half a dozen welding clamps that were exactly what I needed. I punched the wood away from the hatch to get to the solid aluminum and clamped & tied the hatch down. I felt relieved.

Concerns About Neighbors

From the onset, my concern have been for the other three boats who opted to stay aboard and ride out the storm. They have been terrific about asking me how I was holding up as well. We setup communication plan over text and VHF radio to be able to get messages to each other.

Now as I look out the window I see that one of those boats has snapped a piling off and is violently rocking. I see him crawl out on his foredeck presumably to get her under control. I look back and don’t see him. I’m texting him to see if he got back inside safely but no answer. (Spoiler he made it back inside)

L-Dock

The large beautiful yacht at the end of the dock has had a hole punched through the hull and the captain and first mate were now on shore.

The last couple have been aboard from the start and they are concerned the that boat on the lift behind them is dangerously close to coming off and smashing into them.

I realize while my concerns for my friends is made worse knowing that there is no way I could get to them if they need my help.

Concerns for my Neighbors in South Shore Condos

When I drove through the open and unmanned gates into BSM Community I saw no people. It looked abandoned. That said I know some homeowners stayed. When I look at the lovely South Shore Condos I can see directly into some of the units. I hope nobody was inside.

Starboard Engine Overheat Alarm is Sounding!

The helm is now sounding an overheat alarm so I shut one engine down and rush back into the engine room. My sea strainers are full of flotsam as the water is murky. I quickly work to clear both sea strainers and restart the engines. I feel relieved once again.

TO BE CONTINUED…

Geo-Rida

We were on our way to Southport, NC to see our friends Jim & Wende. We had to slow down to no wake speed to keep from swamping this fella who was motoring a small work barge down the ICW.

Cooler Seat Captain

We arrived at St. James Plantation Marina just before sundown. The homes along the harbor are beautiful.

The Big 😀

Jim and Wende let us use their truck to reprovision which was perfect as it was the day before Thanksgiving and we needed TURKEY!

Later that night Jim & Wende took us to dinner at a Joseph’s Italian Bistro @ Safe Harbor Marina. We had dinner with some good local IPAs & lots of laughs. I wish we had taken a photo but I think we were just having too much fun. Jim and Wende told us all about their trip back from Buzzards Bay, MA to Southport, NC in their new Pursuit OS 355. The weather was a bit ruff off the RI coast but they made great time with stops in places like Atlantic City.

Capt Jim & Wende

In the AM we were off and Capt T was at the helm.

Capt T @Helm

We passed a boat dock that was more boat than dock. Capt T thought she recognized a casino boat as we passed and sure enough the “Big M” hailed from Fort Myers, FL.

As we made our way into the Waccamaw River preserve we had to get through the Socastee swing bridge but we were staring straight into the sun. The best we could do was go slow and use the radar to see in front of the boat.

Camera may see the swing bridge on the right but we only saw a bright spot looking out the pilothouse

We anchored in what I call the Waccamaw River (ie. swamp) and it’s beautiful. We had a great night on anchor as the high trees provide protection from everything but the cold.

It was COLD.

We weighed anchor at first light and the swamp was steaming due to early morning low temps.

Waccamaw River pre-dawn

We had to slow to no wake so as to not disturb this Nordhavn anchored right off the main ICW route.

Peaceful Anchorage

The next swing bridge is actually a floating swing bridge. Very cool. It simply uses drop-able drive-on ramps and a huge tilt-able bow thruster.

We arrived in Charleston, SC and the marina we requested a slip from had us “wait-listed”. We anchored for the night next to the USS Yorktown.

The sun was setting on Charleston.

Sunrise in the AM and we were off… bound for Beaufort, SC

Sunrise in Charleston, SC

We anchored in Beaufort with hopes of getting off the waitlist for the marina. In the AM we called and they found a spot for us on the outer face dock.

Docked at Safe Harbor Beaufort, SC

Beaufort is a fun town and we wasted no time getting ashore at Plums Restaurant for some lunch.

Plums in Beaufort, SC

We napped after lunch and made a second run on the town before we would leave in the AM. Beaufort has a great outside park area right in front of the marina.

In the morning we were off to Savannah, GA. Last time I docked right in downtown around River Street but felt it a bit seedy at night. We decided to stay at Thunderbolt Marina and Uber’d into town for a Savannah pub crawl.

Are impromptu pub crawl consisted of the following venues:

  • Spanky’s
  • Boar’s Head Grill
  • The Cotton Exchange
  • Huey’s
  • The Warehouse Bar

We ended the night singing Journey.

Up early to a Whiskey Sunrise & potato pancakes and off to Fernandina Beach, FL

This post consists of 5 legs of our journey

We hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving with family!!!

Beaufort SC and IPAs

Capt Mahty

The storms blew over us all night in Charleston Harbor. The large catamaran beat us off anchor by leaving in the dark. When I weighed anchor it came up muddy and with wooden debris possibly from an old sunken dock or similar? 

Fort Johnson Anchorage Debris

We cleared the debris and pulled out behind MV Gratitude but quickly fell behind her. She was moving at about 8 knots and we had the current against us and were ok to simply keep up 7 knots. 

Trying to keep up with MV Gratitude

We would be making way through Southern South Carolina’s ICW and it’s all about the tide in this area. Unfortunately, we were running into low tide. 

Big Tides in Southern South Carolina

You can see 7-8′ tides in these creeks and we were coming up to Watt’s Cut an infamous shallow cut. As we approached we saw a sailboat stalled out in Watts Cut. They were trying to find the deepest water in which to travel. 

Watt’s Cut – SHALLOW

We hailed them to pass and wanted to offer that they simply follow us but they only answered our hail enough to pass then must have been too busy finding the deep.

As we passed we both said, Is that boat that orange?

That’s One Orange Sailboat

We had to move over in Watt’s cut to get past the dredge that was in operation. We saw 5.8′ of depth just enough to slip through.

Watt’s Cut Dredging Operations

After getting by the dredge called “Tenacious” you can here my 6′ shallow water alarm going off. We had passed a SV Knee Deep who happily let us go first and requested that we hail them if we saw 6′ or less of water. 

We ran at a fast cruise of 8 knots trying to make Beaufort SC before Downtown Marina closed at 5PM. The currents were with us and we arrived with plenty of time to fuel up before they closed. 

267 Gallons of Diesel and a $5 pumpout

This lovely 55′ Fleming trawler pulled in after us.

55′ Fleming 

We got to watch as one of the sailors attempted to row his dinghy down current to chase his boat fender that was quickly getting away from him. Another sailor jumped in his motorized dinghy and quickly came to his rescue. There was no way once he retrieved his runaway fender that he was going to be able to row against the current in the Beaufort River. It was comical as they tried to make their way back. It took them a minute to figure out that both of them should be in the motorized dinghy and simply tow a lightweight dingy behind them. 

No! I think it’s THAT Way!
Waterfront Park, Beaufort, SC

We crashed through the back door of Plums restaurant for some burgers and IPA.

I found out later those were $7 drafts 

The next day we found our way to Q’s on Bay which had a larger selection of Craft Brew IPA. 

I’ll have one of each!

The crew was all smiles 

We awoke the next AM and the loaner car was out so we grabbed some more ice, dumped the trash, filled the water tanks, and made some breakfast. 

Our leg from Charleston, SC to Beaufort, SC looked something like this.. Not really as I did not take the time to figure out how to draw a finger line while staying on the ICW which snakes it’s way through many different creeks in these parts. But I think you’ll get the general direction. 

W02L018 – Charleston, SC – Beaufort, SC

Miss Dixie

We awoke this morning around 5AM. Still dark, our Adams Creek Anchorage was flat calm. I snapped a photo in time to catch both the red buoy & green can illuminated.

5AM Adam’s Creek

We stopped here in Adam’s Creek about 20 NM short of Beaufort, NC. It was a nice 60 degree day and the Patriots game was about to start @1PM. GO PATS!

However, let me take you back to how yesterday started. We weighed anchor in Campbell Creek and made our way @5kts out the 8 ft shallows.

Exiting Campbell Creek

We were a headin’ for the “Dog Ear”. That’s not an official term but if you look at the bathymetric charts long enough you’ll see it in the depth contour line.

A dog’s ear?

We had slipped past a still sleeping Canadian sailboat who was properly displaying the US flag above their homeland flag while in our waters.

We were back in Goose Creek and heading South past the USCG station and RE Mayo Seafood with their docks full of shrimp boats and ‘snowbirds’ as we ICW Travellers are often called.

USCG Station Hobucken

Shrimp Boats

RE Mayo Seafood & Docks

Soon we were turning to port to enter Adam’s Creek where we would drop anchor just feet off the ICW. We sat in the pilothouse watching the parade of boats heading South go by.

The Verizon cell service is 3G (not the faster LTE) so it would be like the internet of the 80’s.

We setup the OTA (Over The Air) TV antenna with hopes of getting the Patriots game in HD. However, North Carolina was only giving us Gospel TV and the PBS “Remembering Miss Dixie” bluegrass tribute concert.

PBS Remembering Miss Dixie tribute concert

Miss Dixie Hall was a prolific song writer who wrote more bluegrass songs than anyone else, some 500 songs. Many sung by country hit-makers from Johnny Cash to Miranda Lambert.

Miss Dixie and her husband Tom Hall

Miss Dixie will be remembered as a kind soul who devoted her life to animal rights as much as bluegrass music.

Yesterday’s short leg looked something like this.

W02L012

Okeechobee Waterway

Leaving Fort Meyers Beach we navigated our way out of the Northern entrance Channel.

FMB Channel 2

We made a last-minute decision to skip Captiva Island in favor of entering the Okeechobee Waterway.

Upon entering the Caloosahatchee River we passed many interesting sights.

Like these folks who just beached the boat and were enjoying the day.

Beached Boat 2

Then this house boat that I think had mannequins on the upper deck and an “Open for business sign”

House boat 7

Soon we were looking for a place to anchor and found a nice little turn in the Caloosahatchee right next to FPL – Florida Power and Light Power plant.

FPL 1

at night the Plant could be seen against the night sky.

FPL NIght 7

The next morning we weighed anchor and headed further down the river. We passed many houses..

Some homes for sale included an airfield so you could simply fly in for the weekend.

Airfield 5

Some farms had cows.

Cows 12

Some had horses.

Horses 1

Some like this home had a beautiful blue hulled Flemming trawler docked on the river.

Flemming

We passed under and requested a few bridge openings.

One particular bridge required contacting a woman over the VHF and waiting for her to walk out to the center of the bridge and have her swing the bridge open. She was very nice and wished us a safe passage as we motored through.

We soon passed this young girl who seemed to be hiding from the world.

Girl hiding

We had to passed through many Locks. Some were a walk in the park but one was full of DRAMA.

At one lock, I was working the lines by myself when I realized that I could not cleat both bow and stern and run fast enough between them to slip the lines. As the water poured into the lock chamber it pushed our full keel away from the concrete lock wall and I lost hold of the bow line. MV Simple Life instantly started to go sideways in the strong current. I had to quickly let go of the stern line and run for the helm. I quickly got the boat in gear and reversed the sideways spin.

Next the thrusters shutdown due to thermal overload and left me with a full-keel and a single engine, fighting to keep the boat from hitting the lock walls or the boats behind us. It was a drama filled full forward / reverse, hard over from stop to stop with the wheel. Kelly came running up and asked what she could do but at that point there wasn’t anything to be done but keep the boat from smashing into the walls, boats, or lock doors. By the time the drama ended, a lesson had been learned. I’ll call that “experience” one day. Never take the lock lines of the cleats and place the fenders as far forward and stern as possible and lastly, use the boat hook to fend-off the concrete walls as the boat twists in the current.

I don’t have a video of the moment of drama but I do have this videos of much more serene lock passings.

We arrived at Lake Okeechobee before sunset but had to tie to a dock because the last lock was closed for the evening. We tied to a small dock next to the larger Moore Haven City Docks. We had to google to find the small dock owner’s name and phone number. We called and found out that he was out-of-town on a family emergency but we found a way to pay him through the DockWa app.

The next morning we shoved off the dock but had to wait for a train bridge that was in the down position.

Since we were waiting on the train anyways, I decided to pull into a marina near the bridge and see if they had any ice. What an interesting stop. I walked up to the marina shack and found a group of men just kicking back in chairs sharing some beer and watching the day pass. They greeted me with a smile and complemented my docking skills. I reminded them that when you have a bow & stern thruster it can make a spinning docking maneuver look easy. They were so friendly, I sat down and talked with them for a while. The marina owner explained that he recently purchased the marina and I asked why he was not on ActiveCaptain.com? He said he was sure that he was on AC but after I showed him I had the latest copy of the AC DB and he was not on it.

AC Moore Haven

The friendly gentleman asked if I could help get him into AC. I spent some time trying before finally emailing AC with my request and I received an email back from Karen Siegal, who I recognized as one of the co-founders of AC. I explained that AC as well as DockWa were two applications that will drive 90% of all transient docking business and we departed with a bag of ice and some fishing gear that I purchased while there.

Once in Lake Okeechobee it was beautiful. Full of amazing trees, birds and alligators.

Lake Okeechobee was very windy and choppy. The crossing had spray hitting the pilothouse windows be inside we were warm and dry.

Out the back you could watch the brown lake water as it boiled up from below.

There are two Easterly routes to the St Lucie river on the Eastern side of Lake O. We decided not to take route #2 often called the Southern Rim Route as it traverses the small towns on the south lake shore. Instead, we took route #1 which crosses in somewhat of a straight line directly to Port Mayaca lock on the Eastern shore.

Okee 68

Upon arrival at the Eastern shore, the lock was closed so we simply dropped anchor right next to lock entrance channel.

Okee Anchor 1

The sunset was amazing. We watched as it slowly sank beneath the lake. Then it was gone.

The next morning we entered the St. Lucie river and passed several interesting sights.

At one point the weather turned bad and local radar images showed we were getting hit with some strong winds and rain. We lowered the flags and closed the windows and pushed on till it passed over us.

weather-radar.png

Soon we exited the St. Lucie River right at the Saint Lucie Inlet and found a nice little anchorage spot just North of the inlet.

Marriott Anchorage

Next stop Vero Beach.

Dry Tortugas

Dry Tortugas

We’ve piloted MV Simple Life from Warwick, RI all the way to Key West, FL. We might as well make the 70 mile trek to the last seven tiny islands referred to as Dry Tortugas. US Highway 1 ends in Key West but the FL Keys continue West into the Gulf of Mexico. The last stop, Dry Tortugas, is a national park and is home to Fort Jefferson.

We awoke at sunrise, had breakfast and let go of our mooring. The winds were picking up but the predicted sea state was something we were OK with. We put Mallory Square in Key West to our stern and began motoring South. Very quickly into the journey you realize that there is no cellphone service outside of Key West

The first clump of low-lying keys that you pass of to starboard are part of the Key West National Wildlife Refuge.

What is very cool is that there are half dozen or so home on Ballast Key.

You could clearly see on of homes as we passed.

The next set of islands are the Marquesas Keys.

We had planned to use an anchorage just along the western shore of Tin Tin Key. However, in-route we decided to go the whole 75 mile distance in one shot.

You can see the Marquesas Keys in this video.

On our journey, we passed many sea turtles flippering their way against the waves.

[Insert Youtube video of sea turtle passing

The water color at in this area is just amazing greens and blues.

When the cloud shadows move over the top of the water you’ll see distinct shades of blue.

Along with sea turtles we saw manta rays on the surface. I attempted to catch it on video but alas it dove as we passed.

[insert YouTube Video of Manta ray ]

The wave heights were beginning to pick up and you can see MV Simple Life is surfing at times in this following sea. When a wave would lift our stern our speed would increase about 1.5 knots we compared to our speed when we would slide down the back of a wave.

[insert surfing waves YouTube video ]

I had to keep my speed up to try and keep up with the following sea and at times our speed hit 10.5 knots. Keeping the speed up also meant a shorted duration in a following sea. After about 9 hours we could see Fort Jefferson off to starboard. Also noteworthy is Loggerhead Light on Loggerhead Key

We quickly raced around the narrow channel and found a spot to anchor in the small harbor. Shortly after anchoring many small commercial fishing boats appeared and two anchored along side us. I found it interesting that with the anchorage full, the fishermen decided to tie one boat off the back of the other anchored fishing boat.

This allowed the two boat to fit where only one could have using the traditional every boat rides on it’s own anchor.

There is a sea plane that takes visitors to the island and we watched as it raced over the surface prior to takeoff.

[insert sea plane YouTube Video]

It had been a long day but I brought the dogs ashore as I checked out the small island. On my way back in the dinghy I noticed the sun was going down so I raced the dinghy out to where I could get a good video of it.

[Insert sunset video]

If watching the camera view bob up and down as bounce in the waves here is static picture.

At night, sitting in the aft cockpit and looking up at the most amazing starry night. I must have seen twice as many stars in that black sky than ever before. As they wind howls over the boat and the stars rock in the sky you sip your beer and feel very small in the universe. It really is moments like this that will stick in mind.

Before retiring to my cabin, I decided to put the underwater lights on and to my surprise there we big fish maybe 2 footers swimming just a foot below the surface.

[insert YouTube video of underwater lights fish]

The morning came and unfortunately things were pulling us back to Key West. I rounded out of the entrance channel and we took the waves head on for our return trip

[insert YouTube video of waves head on ]

Just as we were arriving back in Key West we passed this sport fisher towing a small commercial fishing boat. It’s a long way home at tow speed.

I leave y’all with a reminder to never go to long before starring up at the stars and a dinghy sunset pic from Dry Tortugas

Old Dogs and New Tricks

Happy Brody Cockpit Grass

I wanted to provide an update on the dogs and the poop situation!  The great news is they have both learned to successfully use the artificial turf!  I guess you can teach old dogs new tricks!  Happy, our 7 year old and Chief Brody, our 6 year old Boston Terriers are now signaling when they need to go out back and do their “business!”  We’ve temporarily called the companionway the “Poop Deck.”

In naval architecture, a poop deck is a deck that forms the roof of a cabin built in the rear, or “aft”, part of the superstructure of a ship.[1]

The name originates from the French word for stern, la poupe, from Latin puppis. Thus the poop deck is technically a stern deck, which in sailing ships was usually elevated as the roof of the stern or “after” cabin, also known as the “poop cabin”. In sailing ships, with the helmsman at the stern, an elevated position was ideal for both navigation and observation of the crew and sails.

I really thought it meant something else but that’s my juvenile humor!  Regardless, the captain is thrilled to leave the dingy safely on the fly bridge and let them do their business on the “Poop Deck!”  Then we’re running around for treats like they are puppies again while congratulating them for going to their designated area!!!  Boy, they have it made!