I purposely got a late departure from the marina in Port Washington because I wanted to catch a fair current. When I went to leave my slip the gale force winds were on my beam. When you are solo you must untie and leave only a front a back looped over the cleat so you can climb aboard and flick the lines off and go. The problem this morning was that after I flicked off the stern line and ran through the boat to get to the bow line I’m sure the boat would be sideways in the slip. I opted to tie the boat with a single line, jump aboard, flick the line of the cleat and try to get out of of my slip before the wind had it’s way with me. Lucky for me the slips are very wide as were the fairways.
Pulling out of Port Washington a sailboat was following me.
Blue-hulled sailboat reminds me of my old Hunter sailboat before I bought my trawler
Port Washington is just around the corner from the east end of the East River.
Port Washington is a great staging location to wait for a fair current
Under Bridges
Throgs Neck Bridge is the first bridge as you enter the E. River. You can see the Bronx – Whitstone bridge behind it. The fair current boosts my speed from 6.5kts to 8.6kts as I zip along under the bridge.
Throgs Neck Bridge East end of the E. River8.6 kts thanks to the current
Passing Traffic
Almost immediately I’m being passed by USCG & NYPD boats as well as other boat traffic. They are everywhere as you navigate the East River.
Dystopia
The NYC skyline can be seen in the distance. On this cold grey day I can help but think it looks like a scene from some dystopian future SciFi flick.
Dystopian future skyline
Push Me Along
As I approach the infamous Hell’s Gate where the E. river & Harlem river converge my speed jumps to 11kts.
work pajamas on feet in the helm
Right of Way
Soon I had an oncoming boat that was crossing my port bow. They were on a collision course so I sounded my airhorn for a 1 whistle pass. They did not change speed or direction. I blew my horn again and again with no reaction from the oncoming boat. I finally laid on the horn turned to starboard. We exchange some hand waving before the captain got on the VHF calling me a moron. I simply explained that he did not have the right of way. He was on a collision course. He did not respond to my sound signal and left me no choice but to stop. No response.
Staten Island Ferry
As I pass the souther tip of Manhattan I see the ferry terminal and the Staten Island ferry docked.
They never stay docked very long. NYC’s fast pace as passengers rushing off and on and they are underway again passing me.
A Sexy Girl goes Past
As I’m passing the Statue of Liberty I see a radar return for something passing me on my starboard side. She’s a beauty. MV Arriva from England.
Hustle and Bustle of NYC
This is the busy part of NYC harbor and all sorts of traffic is passing me.
USACE (US Army Corp of Engineers)
Maersk Containership entering NYC harbor
The Jersey Shore
As I pass under the Verrazanno Bridge and past Sandy Hook the sun is setting and at first it’s a beautiful yellowish orange.
Yellowish, orange sunset off Sandy Hook
But minutes later it’s very pink
Pink sunset off Sandy Hook
Serenity
My AIS shows a 66′ foot yacht approaching from my stern.
AIS info transmitted between boats digitally over VHF CH#70
hmmm… 33 feet of beam I think as I wait to snap a photo of this boat with the sunset above. MV Serenity VII is a Lagoon 63 – 4 cabin, crewed power catamaran for charter. You can reserve it here for about 30K/week in the Bahamas if you like? I’d guess the crew are bringing the boat south to the Bahamas for the start of the chartering season.
Red Light District
As the sun sets I swap my salon LED lighting from blue over to red to keep my night vision.
The rest of the trip was a long dark ride to Atlantic City. The sea was calm and I was scheduled to arrive around 4AM. This leg of the journey was 16 hours. I had planned to anchor in Brigantine Bay but it was dead low tide when I arrived and every attempt at getting in the narrow entrance channel ended with the bow slowly riding up on a muddy silty shoal. Being as tired as I was, I simply found a place to drop the hook near the Golden Nugget. The anchor was no sooner set and I curled up on the pilothouse berth and was sound asleep. I plan to wake in 2 hours when the sun comes up and as I have another long 100+ NM day.
W04L003
The 113NM third leg of my Winter 2020 journey looked something like this.
After being awake for 20 hours, I caught about 3 hours sleep before waiting for first light to weigh anchor. Last night’s anchorage served it’s purpose. It was only 10 minutes off my path and was an easy-in / easy-out in the dark.
You can see my track – easy in – easy out
I headed west down Long Island Sound toward NYC. The wind was blowing from the south so the waves were building as they crossed over from Long Island to the Connecticut coast where I was. It made for a choppy wet ride. I decided to cross to the LI side before turning again to the west. This made for a much more comfortable ride heading west.
Demonic Possession
I always set Simple Life’s throttle to 1400 RPM which is 2 gallons/hr burn rate. Depending on the currents I average around 6kts. Doing the math, that’s 3NM to the gallon or about $1/mile. I’ve always thought it’s a pretty inexpensive mode to travel since you are moving you and your 40,000 lb home. However this home might need an exorcism?
Cummins smart craft tachometer showing my 2.0 gal/hr burn rate and 666 gallons burned.
Wait… They don’t go to Heaven?
I cringe when I watch people release mylar ballons to go to heaven in the name of a lost loved one.
They don’t go to heaven
Traffic Jam
At one point I had to change course to take the stern of a tug pushing a barge. I thought maybe I could follow the barge close and let her flatten out the sound but alas at 8.5kts I was burning a lot more fuel and salting up the topsides.
Salt spray was washing my muddy anchor pulpit
I no sooner gave up on following the tug and I was dodging other traffic.
Pilothouse Pleasures
As I plod along I am happy that I am inside on this cold rainy day.
I had left my marina in Warwick, RI on the same day as another B-Dock member, MV Leap of Faith. I had managed to slip ahead of them but not for long as I watched them speed past me.
Girl Power
Soon I pass an overturned sailboat. I think to myself… wow that must be cold as you swim back to the boat and attempt to right it. As I pass I see that it’s two women sailors. I feel a little like a woosie as I wrap a afghan over my feet which feel cold just watching them.
Route Planning
As I get closer to the west end of Long Island Sound I start to plan my upcoming routes. A quick check of the weather tells me I might enjoy the next two nights in a marina rather than anchored at the foot of the Statue of Liberty as planned.
Marina Hideout
I found a great marina called Safe Harbor Capri in Port Washington. I’ve stayed here before and the Dockmaster Rob is very accommodating. Nice place to sit out the wind & rain.
As I pull in there is a dock hand there to catch a line for me. It’s raining hard so I make sure to tip him well. The slips here are large and it looks as if you could dock another boat in my slip right alongside Simple Life.
As I sit and eat some spaghetti I pull out my laptop to renew my EPIRB (Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon) with Search & Rescue for the next two years. I have emergency contacts incase it should ever be automatically triggered by a sinking.
As I sit inside, the wind is trying to blow the dog off the chain. I step out and see that as protected as this marina is… there are still waves rocking the boat.
At the end of the video, you see a sailboat on a mooring whose main sail has unfurled and is flogging. Not good.
Man of Leisure
My new Apple Watch gives me a haptic nudge. I glance down and see that all the boats rocking has tricked my watch into thinking I’m exercising. It believes I’ve just had my longest “move streak” to date. I chuckle to myself and think … I’m a man of leisure.
Apple Watch 6 thinks I have my longest move streak
Weather Window
Now checking the weather I can see it’s going to get worse for the next two days but there appears to be a 5-6 day weather window for running the coast starting Tuesday afternoon.
The weather has been very stormy lately. I would have expected all the tropical storm activity to have ceased but even now in November there are storms forming in the Caribbean.
Go With the Flow
I now need to plan my exit to align with an ebbing current in the East River. Throgs Neck Bridge current station is right at the entrance to the East end of the East River. It’s sort of broad there so you don’t expect too strong a current. However, at Hell’s Gate where the East River and the Harlem River come together you can see there is a 4.73kt max current. The last thing I check is the timing of the currents at The Narrows which is just before I duck under the Verrazano bridge and out into the Atlantic Ocean.
W04L002 is in the Books
Leg #2 of my Winter 2020 journey was only 46.4NM and looked something like this.
Simple Life was supposed to leave the dock on Saturday, October 17th. Now, two weeks later, it’s Halloween and Preppy and I are out on the bow in the blowing snow trying to wire up a windlass.
Windlass wiring
It’s Cold!
Our hands are barely working after letting go of the freezing cold anchor chain. We laugh at how ridiculous the situation is.
It’s says it’s 34 degrees and snowing but the raw wind definitely does make it feel like 22 degrees.
Snow! It’s everywhere.
The original departure date was missed but with Preppy aboard we were now ready to depart. Another quick check of the weather and there’s the remnants of a hurricane that are blanketing our area.
Storm Radar
Gale Warning
So we give it a couple days and what’s next? A Gale Warning!
Not the forecast I was hoping for
The Shanty
With nothing to do but wait we decide to walk to The Shanty for dinner and some IPAs .
The Shanty for some IPA
Frozen Dock Lines
It’s Halloween morning and Preppy is going home as he has next week’s jobs to prepare for. Preppy had agreed to make the trip over to the fuel dock in the morning before we parted ways. The only challenge now was getting off the dock?
Me attempting to thaw my dock lines
Sometimes I don’t think… I just do. So when Preppy said the dock lines are frozen solid on the cleat, I just grabbed the torch which was right next to me and started heating them up. It was not until Preppy said … Umm.. why don’t we just pour some hot water over them? Duh? Yes, that did the trick!
With the dock lines finally freed we made our way out of the slip and over to the fuel dock.
Preppy finally freed the frozen lines
At the fuel dock were Peter & Leslie of MV Leap of Faith. They were attempting to use the pumpout hose but it was frozen and would not operate. MV Leap of Faith is also heading south for the winter. They travel faster than I do so we’ll stay in touch as we go through text & calls.
I really like leaving with full water tanks and an empty blackwater tank, especially when it’s cold as I’ve run into situations where you try to pull into a marina to get water & pumpout and it’s either frozen or winterized. I spent quite a while with the pumpout hose locked open and in the seawater till it thawed and came to life writhing like a snake. A short suck of the 54 degree seawater and it was time to pump out.
The water in Greenwich Bay is a chilly 54 degrees
The Lookback
As I pulled away from the fuel dock, I looked back. Every time I leave I look back. There is an undeniable feeling of freedom. It’s the first moments of a 6 month, 5K mile journey. I smile. The world seems right.
Snow covered fly deck looking back at fuel dock
As I pass Warwick Neck I can see the snow covered Warwick Country Club.
snow covered Warwick Country Club
Point Judith
MV Leap of Faith had already called me and gave me the word that the sea was very calm when they exited Narragansett Bay. I was passing Point Judith Light and slowing coming up on a Hunter sailboat who was also enjoying the trip west down Long Island Sound.
At this moment I noticed that my Garmin satellite tracker seemed frozen. I checked my blog’s current position page and it showed that I was still in Warwick, RI? I quick reset of the satellite tracker and it update my position. Ofcourse it drew a straight line between where I left and where I was when the tracker came back to life. I’m guessing someone is going to ask me how I piloted the boat over the state of RI?
Watch Hill
Soon I was passing Watch Hill, RI and some of the beautiful homes along the coast.
Fisher’s Island
I made my way up the inside of Fisher’s Island. There were fishermen working the current between the island and mainland CT.
Fishing the rip
I don’t know a lot about Fisher’s Island but it looks beautiful as you cruise past.
On the west side of Fisher’s Island you must keep an eye out for the ferry’s as they can sneak up on you pretty fast.
Cross Sound Ferry MV John H – between Orient Point, Long Island, New York and New London, CT
I had planned to anchor behind Fisher’s Island because I had never done that. However, the sea was calm and the moon was bright. I decided to keep going west. The area around Fisher’s Island is called “The Race” and it has strong currents and often gets pretty choppy. Getting inside the northern fork of Long Island seemed like the right thing to do.
With the sun setting Long Island Sound looked amazing.
As night settled in around me I flicked my running lights on and settled back in the captain’s chair for a long night.
Nighttime at the helm
Ultimately I settled on an anchorage with only minimal protection but “just off the beaten path” as they say. Not to far inland that it takes an hour to get in and an hour the next morning just to get out.
I anchored just off Fort Trumbull Beach in Milford Harbor. This location is just west of Bridgeport, CT. There is a small island called, Charles Island with a low-tide land bridge. You need to watch your tides down here near the head of Long Island Sound. If you anchor at high tide you might wake up at low tide with the boat resting on the bottom.
The time was now midnight. It had left Warwick, RI at around 10AM so roughly 14 hours to Bridgeport, CT. The 1st 98NM leg of my Winter 2020 journey looked something like this.
W04L001 – Winter #04 – Leg 001
It was around 1AM by the time I took a hot shower and got to bed. I’m typing this blog post as I sit in the captain’s chair navigating leg 2 of my journey. Stay tuned for the Leg 2 post.
My winter 2019 season ended with a rough ride home to Rhode Island in early May 2020. The ride home had tossed everything in the salon as I fought beam seas.
My Keurig needed a minor repair but she is still making coffee this morning as I type thisLots of fenders to starboard as this early in the season has many transients coming and going.
Back in my slip in early May… I thought the worst was over…
Covid-19 Pandemic
2020 had some good times for me but it sucked in so many other ways
Dad
Now home, the first order of business was to go see Dad. I had flown up to visit once during the winter but now we could spend the next six months together until I had to leave again on Halloween 2020.
Dad & I enjoying some coffee & catching up
I could not do my trip south each winter if it were not for my brother, Eddie and his wife, Doreen. They give so much of themselves to help my Dad live his best life. They become the primary care givers for my Dad when I leave to head south for the winter. Family is a wonderful thing.
Doreen is playing barber and making sure Dad looks sharp
Eddie and I took my Dad to the D Rounds Truck Shows 2020
My Dad drove trucks all his life. These days his memory is failing. My brother and I thought it would be nice to take him to the Danny Rounds truck show 2020. Dad surprised us with his recall of all things trucks that day. It was a great day to see him get out and smile around the antique trucks.
Projects – Dad’s Home
When I get back every Spring my brother and I make any needed repairs to my Dad’s home. This year was a busy one with lots of repairs and modifications to siding, ceilings, furnace, new privacy fence, etc.
FBM – FaceBook Marketplace – Cash is King
I spent some time using FaceBook Marketplace to sell many items and turn them into cash to purchase others. I am kind of addicted to FBM.
More Anchoring – No Kayaks
This was the year that I finally decided to sell both heavy kayaks and go with twin lightweight, high-pressure inflatable, SUPs (Stand Up Paddleboards). I was able to stow two SUPs in the port kayak hooks and a 12″ high-pressure inflatable dock on the starboard side. I also purchased two 12′ x 18″ rafting fenders so other boaters can raft along side me each weekend.
Dinghy Upgrade
Fishing is big in SW Florida. However, much of the water is very shallow. I have decided to upgrade my dinghy as my old Walker Bay 340 dingy (shown below being hauled away by its new owner). It had several patches and was showing its 8 year age.
I found a 12′ Highfield aluminum hulled hypalon dinghy with a 25HP Yamaha outboard on FBM (shown below).
I then set out to customize it. I added:
Tan colored dinghy chaps
Motor & seat covers
Custom silk-screened state registration panels
Garmin GPS/fish finder
NMEA 2K network for outboard engine data on Garmin.
Lifters trim tabs,
Garmin Fusion Stereo
Upgraded battery box with cell charger and 12V power.
Drink holders
Fishing rod holders
etc. (see pics below)
I like to trick out the dinghy to have everything that I need for fishing.
Summer Getaways
My brother was nice enough to cover for me while I flew to Florida on a family emergency as well as got in a few boating trips to Martha’s Vineyard, Cuttyhunk, Block Island and Newport.
Forget Baby Yoda, I got to hang out with a baby Zebra
Saltwater Drone
My old drone got damaged by salt water so I decided to buy a drone that can land directly in the saltwater.
My 4-Legged Kids
Thanks to Kelly for letting me visit our dogs before I left. She’s a great dog Mom and takes the best care of these two. I love these furry kids.
My girl Happy on my right and my boy Brody on my left.
Projects – Simple Life
I worked on several boat projects such as replacing my Khalenberg air compressor, new bottom paint & zincs, waxed hull, LED & party lighting, upgraded to all Gen 3 iPad Pros for navigation, new windlass & deck mount, etc.
Simple Life’s new party lighting in the salon
I also added a new espresso machine and station complete with everything needed to make some good coffee drinks.
Also a shoutout to Greg and Tracey from MV Reel Fine for giving me their old dinghy davits. I mounted them on the stern just before I left.
I finally mounted a proper first-aid kit, Anti-chocking device and AED – Automated External Defibrillator. I hope I never need these but it’s good to know they are aboard.
AED & First-aid
While I had the boat on the hard for maintenance, I made sure to pretty her up.
Civic Duty
Soon I was down to a week before departure so I had to run out quick and cast my vote.
Last Minute Projects
Preppy was supposed to join me for the 1st week on the trip but we needed that week to finish several projects that needed to be done before departure . I can’t thank Preppy enough for his help during this last minute rush to get things fixed and get off the dock. I don’t know how I would have done it without him. Nice to have good friends. Below is a pic of Preppy & I while we took a break and chatted with Heather and Debby who had come by to see me off.
Stay tuned for the next blog post about the first leg of my Winter 2020.
When I left Key West on March 18th, I decided to run East up the inside of the Florida Keys. The weather was both windy and wavy. This inside route can offer some protection as you run up the wind shadows behind different keys. The downside is… it’s also notoriously shallow in certain areas as we’ll see.
Simple Life underway leaving Key West
Bye, Bye Key West
I untied the lines, jumped aboard and put her in gear. The pic above was snapped just after leaving Sunset Marina. You can see Dredger’s Key on the left iPad as well as straight ahead. You can also see that I didn’t get an early start (8:32AM).
Informational Layout for Navigation
I like to navigate using twin iPads. You can see that the iPad on the left is zoomed out to get the big picture while the iPad on the right is zoomed in for more detail about depths around Simple Life. I split the screen of my MFD (Multi Function Display) to expose different pieces of data. A chart plotter on the left half of the screen, a rear-facing camera on top-right and a scrolling depth display on the bottom-right.
My chart plotter display is mainly used for showing radar & AIS targets. The rear-facing camera let’s me see boat traffic coming up behind me. The scrolling depth is very important as it gives me depth trending. The instrument display to the left of the MFD shows the current depth in real-time. I believe it is more important to understand how the depths are trending. It goes without saying that in almost every grounding case, the ocean floor came up gradually to meet the boat.
My track leaving Key West and anchoring inside Marathon. I can’t stop interpreting this picture as a view from space. A planet with the Keys curving across it’s surface.
Which Route?
I chose to run the shallow inside of the keys and not the plenty deep “Hawks Channel” running east-west just below the keys. Running Hawk’s Channel does not require as much attention because it’s plenty deep. You’ll never worry about running aground. However, the wind had been blowing hard E-S-E for the past few days and I’m guessing the waves in Hawks Channel would have made that passage a rough one.
End of the Day and the Cruise
After running the inside of the Keys all day, the sun was setting. Lucky for me I did not have that much further to reach my chosen anchorage for the night.
Sunset off Marathon in the FL Keys
As I approached my anchoring location off Vaca Key, I made sure to tuck in close behind land. I hoped to gain a night’s shelter from the wind.
Anchored for the night off Vaca Key
As I crept closer to the shore it shallowed to only 6.1 feet deep.
Shallow as I approached Vaca Key
Now when I anchor, I always need enough water under Simple Life’s 5′ deep keel to make sure she is not laying on her side when low tide hits.
I had already determined that the tides here were less than a foot. It was currently high tide. The boat was in 6.1′ of water. While I’m fast asleep at 3:51AM, the next morning, I should still have an inch or two beneath the boat.
In the daylight fading you see the two other boats that I snuck past to get close to shore.
Sharing my anchor spot with these two while Social Distancing
Anchored, it’s time to celebrate todays run with an IPA (or two) before bed.
The next day’s cruise was absolutely beautiful. I decided to shoot a short video to give a 360 degree view of what the water looks near Islamorada.
Islamorada near Cotton Key
For reference I placed a marker near Cotton Key, Islamorada.
Cotton Key off Islamorada
It’s very shallow here. My shallow water alarm is set to go off below 6′. It is beeping incessantly.
Zipping along at 5 kts with inches beneath the keel.
Below I am approaching Grouper Creek in Key Largo. Here the banks starts to close in around you with mangroves.
Mangroves
Soon I was passing Gilbert’s Resort on Key Largo. Even though Covid-19 was shutting down most activities, this place seemed alive with people enjoying the beautiful day.
At this point I was in Biscayne Bay near Elliot Key just north of Key Largo.
Elliot Key
Watching the sunset off Elliot key was beautiful.
I cruised on into the night with my heart set on making it to Miami. As you approach Miami you are struck with how amazing the skyline is from the ocean at night.
Approaching Miami from the ocean at night
Visible is the bridge I must go under
From my anchored location
Close up
Miami Skyline
I’ll end this post with a short video that I took from Simple Life while on anchor.
It seems like a framed photo rather than a city all lit up and alive with activity
So it’s March 13th and the bars on Duval St. are open and seems worried about the Covid-19 pandemic but that will change by the end of this post.
Five Days
Preppy flew back to Boston yesterday but I rented my slip here in Key West for another five days. I was happy that Teresa had decided to drive down for the weekend so we could spend that time together. We started our weekend by hoping on the scooters and hitting Duval St.
1st stop Pinchers Crab Shack.
There was a woman playing guitar and she was great.
She kept us laughing the whole time
We were enjoying some beer, margaritas and bang bang shrimp (wow those were good).
The table is covered with brown paper which I keep spilling IPA onIt’s happy hour so they bring you 2 IPAs every time you order one 😉
I’m not sure how we missed the “Bucket of Fun” on that menu?
At one point a patron of the bar was proposing to the the guitar player by offering her a roll of toilet paper. At first it looked like he was going to win her over with the roll but she was clearly holding out for more.
Toilet paper proposal
You can see our scooter handlebars behind the singer and it was time to jump on them and go exploring Key West before this happy hour slows us down. So off we went scootering.
Southernmost Point Buoy
Southernmost Point Buoy in Key West (note no face masks on anyone at this point)
When in Key West, you must stop at the Southernmost Point Buoy and take a picture. There was a line to take a picture so we figured we’d simply stand in the street and take a selfie with the famous buoy.
Tuck & Roll
I forgot to mention to Teresa that when scootering, you cannot take your hands off the handlebars for any reason. Cow Key Channel Bridge (pictured below) was the scene of the horrific crash. Rather than wait for the med flight to arrive, Teresa agreed to scooter back to MV Simple Life where I would bandage her back together.
Boat Cruise
The next day was warm and sunny so we figured we’d untie Simple Life and slip away from the dock for a boat ride around Key West.
The water color is amazing in the sun
You can see the northern tip of Fleming Key behind us. Fleming Key and bridge that connects it to Key West are part of a section of the Naval Air Station Key West called “Trumbo Point” and are inaccessible to civilians without US Navy clearance.
Duval St Take Two
The next day we explored Key West again. This time via Uber and somehow we still wound back up at Pinchers. Teresa was born and raised in Florida and grew up on seafood. I think she’s working on converting me into a seafood guy. We had just enough time for one last obligatory selfie before our Uber arrived to take us back to Simple Life.
I pretty sure the 2for1s were flowing this night 😉
It was a weekend to remember.
Publix Run
The next day I put on my backpack climbed into the dinghy and set out across the shallow bay to Publix supermarket. Figuring I could carry four times as many groceries in the dinghy than the scooter, my plan seemed to make sense. The plan was to land the dinghy along the roadway in front of Publix. This resupply mission would ultimately fail. I had drastically underestimated just how shallow the water was around Salt Pond Keys and especially as you get close to the roadway.
Dinghy path shown in red from marina on right to Publix at the bottom
Feeling defeated, I returned to the marina tied the dinghy up and hopped on my scooter for multiple resupply runs. It was March 16th and people were still shopping without masks or protective gear.
non perishables
No toilet paper to be had
Even during a pandemic the gluten-free pasta sat alone on the empty shelves
Beer & Coffee = Essentials
Publix Resupply Run
While Simple Life has a fridge and freezer with a separate sub-zero freezer I could load up on perishables and simply freeze them but like most boaters I prefer to stock the pantry full of non-perishables.
More IPA and margaritas
Good thing I stocked up on beer because on March 17th at 5PM on St. Paddy’s Day, the FL Keys shut down all the bars due to Covid-19. My plans to enjoy a few IPAs @ Irish Kevin’s on Duval St. died a few hours before it would have started. Maybe another time?
Dinghy Fishing
I’m now back at the boat and tired from all the lugging food & beer on the scooter. The night was warm so I figured it was a great night to go fishing in the dinghy.
Plenty of height to squeeze the dink under Cow Key Channel bridge
Fun night of fishing in the dink
Sunsets in Key West are amazing
Late night returning to the mother ship
On my last night in Key West I was reading on Facebook a post from a fellow trawler guy who motored past a a 63′ Viking sport fishing boat aground on a jetty. He snapped this photo in the early morning before the sun came up.
On the Jetty in the night
Seems the boat ran into the jetty in the night. I felt horrible for the captain of MV Fuelish Pleasure as this kind of thing can happen to any captain when you lose situational awareness. Sometimes when it’s pitch black out and you have the brightness of the chartplotter turned way down it’s hard to see all the chart detail. Add to that the boat is bouncing up and down and it’s easy to make a mistake in the dark.
Sun is up and you can see the jetty Time came up and boat went overLooks like it may have been for sale
The captain may have been trying to pass between two shallow spots on the chart and might not have noticed the thin line that depicts a rock jetty. It’s very easy to do.
The arrow points to a thin chart line that is a rock jettySt. Mary’s Inlet and my route
The chart above is of the St. Mary’s Inlet where this accident occurred. It is right on the Florida – Georgia line between Cumberland Island to the north and Amelia Island to the south. You can see my route line in red where I would was anchored in the Amelia River near the #1 waypoint. I used this route to exit that same inlet in 12 days after leaving Key West. I did a 40 hour solo offshore beginning the morning of 3/27/20. You’ll read about that when I catch up writing these blog posts. I’m glad nobody was injured in this accident.
I had been waiting for a good friend of mine, Preppy to fly into Fort Myers. That day has arrived. As soon as he had stowed his bag in the guest stateroom we dropped the Segway scooters on the dock and it was to explore downtown Fort Myers. First stop… Ford’s Garage for a burger and some IPAs.
The Bar @Ford’s Garage in Downtown Fort Myers
Ford’s Garage’s bar has a beer cooling feature that I had never seen. It’s a refrigerated chill plate the runs the whole length of the bar. The bartenders and customers place their schooner beer glass on the chill plate to keep their drinks cold. The humid Florida air has the effect of creating a layer of frost on the chill plate that makes a great low friction, melted frost, beer spinning activity. I felt some strange addiction to spinning my IPA. Like a fidget spinner but for an IPA.
IPA spinning addiction… It’s real folks!
Fort Myers Beach
A day after Preppy arrived and my slip rental at Fort Myers Yacht Basin has come to an end. I need to push on to Key West and eventually start making my journey back home to RI. Schedules in long-range transient boating rarely work due to issues with weather, repairs, etc. You must plan to have downtime.
Preppy & I got a late start leaving Fort Myers and made a short cruise to Salty Sam’s in FMB for the night. Fort Myers Beach is a fun location and it was time to put the dink in the water and go out for some drinks. First stop… Matanzas Inn.
Oklahoma!, Oklahoma! It’s not the Safe Word but the bartender’s name!
Back aboard, Preppy wasted no time cooking up Bubba burgers with peppers & onions on buttered buns.
Bubba Burgers – Yum
Naples Not Marco Island
We were planning on stopping in Marco Island as a HS friend has a place there and I thought it might be nice to ping her and see if she and husband could meet up for a drink. However, the weather and Covid-19 were not making that a reality.
Windfinder Pro app shows a strong East wind that made our trip a bit lumpy
We decided that we would come in from the Gulf at the Naples inlet and find a place to anchor inside for a day or two until the weather settled. The inlet was rough with breakers on both sides but once inside it was peaceful. We motored all the way into downtown Naples searching for a marina or anchorage deep enough to hold Simple Life’s 5′ draft. Repeatedly we ran into shallows at each anchorage we attempted. With no open slips at marinas either, I thought we’d have to go back out the Naples inlet into a lumpy gulf of Mexico and forge on to Marco Island? However, there was one last anchorage just inside the inlet. Our anchorage of last resort turned out to be safe haven.
Naples Inlet and our anchorage can be seen
Anchorage zoomed in
Beautiful homes surround us
Hanging at The Boathouse in Naples
Music & IPAs at night
Sunrise
This Naples anchorage was peaceful and turned out to the first of two stops along our route to Key West.
Shark River in the Everglades
When we left Naples we set a course directly for the Lower Keys and ultimately, Key West. I have read that Marathon is defined as the “Middle Keys” between Key Largo in the “Upper Keys” and Key West in the “Lower Keys”. The wind was 20+kts out of the East with gusts much higher. The path I had chosen took us quite some distance from the shore and thus gave the wind more water to blow across (properly referred to as “fetch” or the distance traveled by wind or waves across open water). The larger the fetch, the taller the waves. We needed to seek out smaller waves as taking large waves on our beam was not enjoyable. So we decided to make a 90′ turn to port and run head-on into the waves till we were closer to shore before turning southward again. This also meant that we were going to have to anchor somewhere along the shore rather than our original plan to make it to Key West before nightfall.
Our trip from Naples to the Everglades to Key West and then the inside Keys route to Miami and points north
The depths were shallow for a long way in as we approached the Little Shark River anchorage just north of Cape Sable. We found a sailboat anchored here and chatted a bit on the VHF as we dropped anchor. A friendly couple who told us she was local to the Everglades area and he was from Alaska. They said they spend quite a bit of time in this particular anchorage.
The next morning we ran south down the coast till the southern edge of Cape Sable. At this point it was advantageous to do another 90 degree turn, this time to starboard and put the now increasing waves on our stern. The rest of the trip down the lower keys was spent with a following sea.
Caldera or Northwest Channel?
We were looking to get out of the following sea and into Key West. I decided to take the narrow and winding Calda Channel which I had successfully navigated in 2018. It’s much faster to take this channel then have to continue west till you get to the larger, much deeper Northwest Channel. The NW Channel is used by the Key West Express high speed ferries that run between Fort Myers Beach or Marco Island and Key West.
Big waves and shallow water are not a captains friend. Still traversing the Calda Channel would shave off over an hour of travel. However, we only made it to the first Green #1 Daymark before we slowly ran aground. The shallow water alarm is set at 6′ and it was blaring away. I backed up and attempted to poke the bow around to see if I could find deeper water and a path further into Calda Channel. No luck! We had to spin in the wind & waves and make our way further west to the official Northwest Channel. (see picture below)
As we entered the proper Key West Northwest Channel we found plenty of water and a wide easy to navigate channel (pictured below)
There are two ways into Key West.
1. Key West Main Channel as it is called which comes in from Hawk’s Channel which runs the whole south side of the Florida Keys.
2. The NorthWest Channel that comes in from the inside of the Lower Keys or Gulf of Mexico.
As we approached the end of the NW Channel where it meets the Key West Main Channel we saw the cruise ship which is often docked in port. It was March 9th and Covid-19 virus infections were increasing in each US state. We could only guess that the people we saw on the room balconies were crew disinfecting rooms and not passengers?
As we passed this cruise ship I’m guessing the people aboard during the Covid-19 pandemic were disinfecting it?
Wisteria Island
Now in the main channel we are passing Tank & Wisteria Islands (pictured above on left side of Key West). All around Wisteria Island is the Key West Anchorage and the boats here are mostly permanent liveaboards. Sadly, their boats are often lost to frequent hurricanes ex. Wilma, Irma, etc. Many who homes got sunk moved onto Wisteria Island and setup tents to live. There is a legal battle about who owns Wisteria Island and if it is dangerous. I have wanted to dinghy over to the island but have never done so yet. What is the truth about this island? Is it safe? IDK
Feel good story about the Children who grew up on Wisteria Island after the 2005 Hurricane season shipwrecked them – 10 min
Is Wisteria Island safe? IDK But when $ is involved you can expect corruption – 10 mins long
When you motor through the anchorage you will be amused at how creative some are with building floating log cabins or sheds to hold the things they need. It reminds me of the 1995 movie Waterworld.
I had called several marinas and finally booked a 10 day reservation at Sunset Marina on Stock Island. Stock Island is the first island as you leave Key West.
Sunset Marina
Nobody from the marina was there to catch our lines but a couple cleaning the bottom of their boat were kind enough to catch a line as we backed in.
Simple Life docked at Sunset Marina
Once tied up at the dock it was time for some IPA and steaks.
Pub Crawl
Then drop the scooters on the dock and ride into Duval St. in Key West for some bar hoping.
Scooter ParkingWaterfront Brewery KW
Scooters
Exploring Key West on scooters is a blast. Have I mentioned that I believe the pair of scooters was a perfect addition to MV Simple Life? I bought them on Amazon if anyone is interested.
Fun Scooters
Now driving around on a scooter with a big dorky helmet can look a little silly but be sure to make sure your friend has not stuck childish pins in your helmet to make it look even worse. I did not notice this pin until I had already driven all around Duval St.
Hahaha
Beer Run Turned Police Crash
Even funnier was what happened on our way scootering back to the boat from a beer run. So Preppy and I are scootering past a pair of policemen who are sitting on the hood of their car which is blocking the road that leads to our boat. I’m not sure of the legality of scootering down the road so you try to avoid any law enforcement of such behavior. So I’m in the lead and I say “hello officers” as I speed by the front of them and prepare to stop and take a hard left turn onto the sidewalk. It’s in that moment that I hear Preppy look over at them and say “Hi guys” as I feel Preppy slam into the back of me now that I stopped to turn. It sends me flying forward on the scooter off the sidewalk and into the grass but somehow I managed to stay up even with a 20 lb. backpack full of beer. I knew the right thing to do in that moment was… DON’T STOP. Just keep on scooting like nothing happened. I was dying laughing but I’ll bet not as hard as the two officers!
Preppy Fly Home
When the day came for Preppy to fly out we called an Uber and walked past the tarpon swimming in the marina
Walking up the ramp at the dock
Closeup – Tarpon?
Uber on Stock Island
It was lots of fun having Preppy aboard but he must get back to New England especially with this Covid-19 Pandemic worsening.
One of the things I miss when I’m down south in the winter is my family & friends up north. I was flying home and my Dad was one of the first people I saw.
Family
Dad & I enjoying catching up over coffee
My Mom has been gone six years now but my Dad like to visit her grave everyday to feel closer to her.
I had to buy a pair of new boots as I have not seen snow in 3 years
Friends
Catching up with friends was next on the list.
Pints at the Raven (well coffee for me as I was the DD)
Good friends of mine have a camp in Maine and invited me to go snowmobiling up north. Luckily they had extra skimobile gear and a sled for me to ride. I had a blast.
It’s a long drive… we got thirsty
Sadly it was time to say goodbye to Dad for now and hop a flight back to MV Simple Life.
Selfie
Spin’s Boston Whaler
Before I had left to fly north, we had been traveling around the state of Florida looking at different boats together as well as spending time discussing pros and cons of each style of boat. The shallow canals around SW Cape Coral are better suited for shallow draft boats with outboard engines that can be tipped up. Speed is also desireable as trips to Sanibel and Captiva Island or Fort Myers Beach can be done in a hour with speed.
Back in Cape Coral, Mike had purchased a new boat. Mike chose a beautiful Boston Whaler Outrage 32′ with twin 275 Mercs. The only thing to do now was go boating!All smilesShe can giddy upIt’s cold at 30ktsGood view of the whole boat
Tween Waters Resort & Spa – Captiva Island
One boating trip was to Tween Water Resort & Spa on Captiva Island.
Arrived at the boat in the AM
Channel entering Captiva
Looks like there is a small deep water anchorage (note the stern anchor to control swign
Tween Waters Dock
Tween Waters Beach
Tween Waters Office
You can rent small cabins
More like a shed in many ways
Tween Waters Pool-side Bar
Pain Killer I believe
Captiva Beach on the South Side
Claire & I
Tween Waters Resort & Spa
Tween waters is a fun destination and one that I would eventually take MV Simple Life to and found the anchorage just deep enough for my keel with maybe 2-3 inches under the keel at low tide. Note there was a much smaller but deeper anchorage where the trawler was in the picture above but it was not very far off shoals, hence the stern anchor deployed by the trawler.
Funky Fish House Debacle
Well January was coming to an end and I needed a new place to keep my boat. Turns out that every place I called was booked solid. Cape Coral is a busy boating destination. I was lucky enough to have a friend who called a friend and she was nice enough to offer me her dock at the Funky Fish Houses. These houses are cool multicolored canal homes that look like they belong in the Bahamas.
Funky Fish
Fish houses are still under development
Multicolors
End of the red fence @25′ dock but not this one
Funky Fish Houses
Unfortunately for me, I misunderstood the directions of “…go to the end of the orange tape and you’ll find a 25′ dock to tie up at.”. That meant I tied my boat to the wrong dock and within 24 hours I got a call from the Cape Coral PD about my boat being tied to a private dock. I explained that I had permission to tie from the owner but in the end it turned out I was about 200′ in the wrong direction. It was Super Bowl Sunday and the game had just started but instead cracking a beer, I was racing back to my boat to move it ASAP to appease the unhappy Fish House owner. After that embarrassing mishap I felt I had better just find a marina somewhere else. I called and called and called until I finally found a slip for only 2 nights at Tarpon Point Marina.
Tarpon Point Marina
Tarpon Point Marina & The WestinTarpon Point Marina
Tarpon Point Marina was alluring as it was attached to the Westin hotel. There were two great restaurants onsite
The morning that my two night stay was up, had a visitor. Carl Bush showed up for coffee and a chat. It was great to get to meet Carl after emailing back and forth for so long. Funny that everywhere I go around Cape Coral … I seem to keep bumping into people I know. Oh almost forgot… Thanks for the IPAs, Carl 😉
Carl & I on the docks
Having to leave Tarpon Point because my two night reservation was up had me again calling every marina I could find in Cape Coral for my next slip assignment. I struck out and was forced to move the boat to FMB. While Fort Myers Beach is a desirable location it put me quite far away from all my new friends I had made.
FMB – Salty Sams Marina
Salty Sams Marina
Pirate ship in background goes out daily
Spin took a ride down to FMB
MV Simple Life in her slip at Salty Sams
As you approach Salty Sams be aware of the shoal… it’s where the birds are standing 😉
Salty Sams Marina FMB
Not My Marina
With no slip space available in Cape Coral I called every marina I could find in the Fort Myers area. I was excited when I found a marina in North Fort Myers that said I could rent a slip for an entire month. I plotted a course to this new marina and upon arrival I was not impressed.
observing the marina from the outer wall
Many of the boats in this marina looked as if they had not left the marina in years. I decided as desperate as I was to find a home for MV Simple Life… this was not it.
Slowly ran up on silt running 10′ from the outer wall
Dishearted, I had to back MV Simple Life up along the wall to deeper water and depart to find yet another destination.
Fort Myers Yacht Basin
Back in the Caloosahatchee River I happened to call Fort Myers Yacht Basin who told me it was my lucky day as they had a yacht just leave and I could have their slip for the next month.
This marina is right in downtown Fort Myers and close to many restaurants as well as the parades that seem take over the downtown each weekend.
Me trying to walk through the HS bands durning parade warm-upJust a few of the Edison Festivals in Downtown Fort Myers
Mobility
So I used to have electric bikes that I loved but they wound up at the bottom of the ocean. You’ll have to buy me an IPA to hear that story. I needed something that when I anchored or docked in port I could use to explore the land. It should be small and light enough that I can easily place it in and out of the dinghy as well as store inside the boat. The pair of electric bikes were great but the chains rusted on my flydeck and they were beasts to put in and out of the dinghy.
Segway Scooters are for Cool Kids
One of the two Segway Kickbot MAX electric scooters aboard MV Simple Life
I took this picture while scooting around Fort Myers Centennial Park along the Caloosahatchee River. These scooters are perfect. They roll along at 18MPH for a rider up to 320lbs and have a 40 mile range. I’d say 30 miles for sure but the charger is built-in so simply bring along the power cord and plug in at the bar. I used to Uber everywhere … now I scoot to the grocery store or local watering hole.
Ford’s Garage in Downtown Fort Myers
Did I mention that Fort Myers has a local IPA called High 5 and it’s terrific?
Fort Myers Brewing Company
I used the time at the marina to repair my dinghy engine. I had a fuel leak and tracked it down to a corroded high pressure fuel filter (yes, my Tohatsu 25HP dinghy engine is fuel injected).
Somehow salt water sat on this filter and corroded itNew high pressure fuel filter being installed. Yes, my Tohatsu 25HP is fuel injected!
One morning I awoke to some sort of medical emergency on the boat behind me.
Fort Myers 1st responders doing what they do best
Apparently the woman had a heart attack and her husband performed CPR until the 1st responders came to save the day. Happily, the woman made a recovery and returned to the boat making everyone smile.
I took Simple Life to Captiva Island one day and it was a beautiful day for a cruise.
I stopped and anchored on the Miserable Mile as the locals call it. This section at the mouth of the Caloosahatchee River is a no wake manatee zone and all the boat traffic jams up. There is an anchorage just off this section of channel and is fun to watch the boat traffic as they pass.
Typical boat traffic for Cape Coral
I learned that this stretch of canal is often referred to as the Miserable Mile for its slow speed but the real original Miserable Mile is about a mile further west where the channel is narrow with cross currents and shallows on both sides. Sailors aptly named this westward stretch of channel due to the cross currents that would try to push them onto shoals as they tacked their way down the narrow canal.
Real Miserable Mile circled and the slow manatee zone is just to the right of that red circle.
It did not take long for Spin and crew to show up and the party started. Three other boats were now rafted off Simple Life as she sat on anchor.
Cory (on the phone) was playing some good music from his phone to his boat which was rafted off the back
In a few days Preppy was flying in and we’d be leaving Fort Myers for Key West. This board should help me find my way back to my new friends next winter.
While it’s unusual for me to spend so much time in one place rather than to keep moving… I was having too much fun to depart to other destinations. My winter was spent in Cape Coral, FL.
Cape Harbour Marina
The marina I chose was Cape Harbour in South West Cape Coral. I had a great location along the boardwalk.
The Boardwalk
MV Simple Life
The Boardwalk filled up with boats
It’s like MV Simple Life is facing the wrong direction
Marlow Explorer 58 took my slip
Cape Harbour
Every morning I would make my coffee and walk the boardwalk. The cafe on the boardwalk would often have live music.
Flashed back to high school when I heard Fire & Rain
Galley Action
Upon returning from my walk, I would often griddle me up something to eat and pack the fridge with leftovers. Cooking is something I enjoy doing but when you are cooking for one I often find myself cooking large quantities. I love leftovers!
Chop Chop Chop
Prep
Ready for the oven
Yum
Steak & Peppers
I’m thinking an egg wash might have made the Panko stick better?
mmmm Donuts!
I just love pepper & onion
Perfect hardboiled eggs every time with my Dash egg cooker
Pork tenderloin a favorite of mine
Galley Action
What is interesting about food provisioning for my boat… I often stick to non-perishables that store without refrigeration and last a long time. Lots of rice, bean, pastas, oats, can goods, etc. Nice to know if I shove off… food is not going to be one of the things that will force me back to a dock. When I’m in port and plugged into shore power I’m usually close to a grocery store. Those are the times I enjoy my steaks, fresh vegetables and of course mint chocolate chip ice cream.
Oreo Cookie Pie crust with MCC ice cream
I’m trying to leave some for tomorrow
Too yummy
MCC & Oreo ice cream pie
Tiki Bar
When you run out of ice cream it’s off to the V.O. Tiki Bar around the corner for a beer.
Jay in the background
Spin just hanging on
Angela bartending
V.O. Tiki Bar
Angela
New Years Eve
It was nearing the end of 2019 and the 2020 New Years decorations were being put into place.
The lighted 2020 ball that would drop at the outdoor New Years Eve party2020 had starting off right
Star Wars – A Space Opera
The last Star Wars movie had recently been released to theaters.
Star Wars in chronological story-time order
A friend asked me, “Are you a fan of Star Wars?”. “Of course!”, I said. He then asked me… “What is your favorite Star Wars movie?”. His question caught me completely off guard. Hmmmm. I tried to think back of all the different Star Wars movies I have seen in the past and I simply blurted out “Return of the Jedi”. I have to admit in that moment I simply could not recall the details of the individual movies and simply gave him an answer to avoid dead silence or him believing that I was not truly a Star Wars fan. We then made plans to go see Star Wars: Episode IX – The Rise of Skywalker (2019) in the local theater. It was in that moment that I realized I needed to re-watch the whole Star Wars series of movies in what I’ll call “story-time order” so that the SciFi space opera makes sense.
This was quite an undertaking but when I got to the last Star Wars movie I realized that the answer I had given earlier was 100% bullshit. Return of the Jedi is the worst of all the the Star Wars movies. Return of the Jedi is like watching The Muppets and it was full of cheesy dialog that just doesn’t fit the drama unfolding.
SW RotJ Sucks Muppets
The best Star Wars movie is a toss up between two of the stand-alone movies, Rogue One & Solo. Note that these two Star wars movies were not part of the original trilogy, prequel trilogy or the sequel trilogy which form the base of the Star Wars story (shown on the bottom of the story-time timeline pictured above).
Solo: A Star Wars StoryStar Wars: Rouge OneStar Wars: The Mandalorian series – also a favorite of mine
As I took my seat, I was excited to watch the last in the sequel trilogy, The Rise of Skywalker.
The Rise of Skywalker
Kylo Ren
She was not really there
Rey
Theater
While I enjoyed the last episode tremendously… the ending did raise lots of questions for me.
It was time to take a road trip from Cape Coral to Key Largo to visit a friend. It’s about a 3+ hour ride which takes you down Alligator Alley. Alligator Alley is the long east-west section of Interstate 75 shown crossing the Everglades.
When we got to the end of Alligator Alley and headed south down route 91 (shown as route 1 in the picture above) we drove past this 450′ tall guitar.
When we arrived in Tavernier in the FL Keys we stayed at an inn on the canal.
View looking East down canal
View looking West down canal
Beautiful Canal Homes
Boats & Bars
View from the Inn
Creekside Inn
As we explored a bit we came about The Mar Bar. A small tiki bar along the canal. Just in time for an IPA.
Spin claiming his seat early
The Mar Bar
The preferred method of transportation to The Mar Bar
Enjoying a beverage or two
Fun local couple we met at the tiki bar
The Mar Bar
We were not done yet… time to seek out the next watering hole.
Spin lost in the palms
They had better beer here
Fun place to dock your boat
Bar overlooks the marina out back
fun place
Old Tavernier Restaurant
The next morning it was time to drive up-island to the Ocean Reef Club on Key Largo. When you are driving to the FL Keys, there are two roads that cross over from mainland Florida. The first is Route 1 and the second is Old Dixie Highway.
Key Largo
If you take Old Dixie Highway you must turn left and follow an empty road that terminates at the entrance gate to to the Ocean Reef Club.
Ocean Reef Club main entrance gate
You must be on a list of expected guests of an Ocean Reef member. They will ask for drivers licenses of all those in the vehicle and scan them as well. It’s novel to see a security gate that actually questions those who enter.
Check out that tree
Mike used for scale
Cool Tree
I was interested in visiting the marina incase I wanted to visit by boat.
Beautiful day to walk the marina
Nice Docks
Wide Slips
Sport fishing boats
Tall Climb up the Towe
Mirror Finish
Wee Bit Breezy
Enclosed Flybridge and Gone With the Wind stairs down to swim platform
Ocean Reef Club Marina
Next we made a quick stop at the onsite airport. Just in time to catch a private jet coming in for a landing.
Ocean Reef AirportI like this small single engine plane
We took a stroll through the village to see all the interesting shops.
leisurely stroll
Put a bow on it…I’ll take it.
Mr. & Mrs. Claus
Feels like home
Ocean Reef Village
I was having so much fun I had not realized it was time for us to go.
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